KEishin
February 9th, 2006, 11:02 AM
When you use these two stitches together, all sorts of interesting patterns happen. Even if you're not ready to design patterns, a sweater, scarf, dishcloth, and an afghan are all simple squares or rectangles sewn together in various forms.
I’m going to cover various standard stitch patterns in knitting. All of them combine k and p. This’ll be a great chance to practice.
Standard Patterns:
Stockinette Stitch: (easy)
We’ve already covered garter stitch, but now we’ll cover the signature stitch for knitting – the stockinette. 95% of the time, this is what you’ll be using in your projects (abbreviated ‘st st’ or ‘k1 row p1 row’ in most patterns.) It’s a very simple design: on the first row you knit across all stitches, then the second row you purl across, repeating as necessary until you’ve reached the length you need. It gives the distinctive ‘v’ pattern on the front of your project.
First issue: remember that stockinette rolls. This is simply the nature of the pattern and there's nothing you can do to stop it from rolling. So if you're knitting anything you want to lie flat, don't knit stockinette! (Or just block it out afterwards with warm water and some pins to solve it.) Think about the yarn itself you've selected. Is it a novelty yarn with eyelashes? Don't bother with anything other than the simplest of stitch patterns as it will not be discernible; if you're knitting a scarf or afghan, remember you want it to lie flat. A smooth cotton or wool, on the other hand, calls for a more elaborate stitch pattern; stockinette will soon bore the knitter and the eye.
Ribbing: (easy) (See pic)
Ribbing is the next easiest form of pattern knitting. It is the stretchy part of a sweater, often found on the cuffs, neck or hemline. It is done k1, p1 in the same row. Then on the reverse side, you p1 k1. In other words, you k where you p on the row previous and vice versa. It’s best at first to do your ribbing with an odd number of co stitches (i.e 45, or 57) so you can remember what stitch comes next when you switch rows. As the pattern progresses it’ll be easier to keep track.
More complex/larger versions can be k2, p2; k3, p1; p3, k1, etc and so forth. You’re limited only by imagination.
Please note: when you switch between knit and purl in the same row, you have to bring the yarn from the front to the back or vice versa for each stitch, depending on what you are doing. When you switch from knit to purl, you must bring your yarn to the back before starting the next stitch; from purl to knit, reverse that. To do this: pass the yarn between the points of the needles. Do not lay the strand of yarn across the top of the needle as it’s likely to be mistaken for another stitch and then you end up doing an increase.
Basketweave: (easy) (see pic)
Similar to rib, basketweave is done with k and p in the same row. The same rule about moving your yarn from front to back applies here too. Since this is in counts of five, it’s best to have your co stitches be in 5’s as well (25, 40, 55, etc)
Row 1: k5, p5, rep to end. Row 2: p5, k5 to end.
Herringbone: (intermediate) (see pic)
Sometimes called the ‘double stockinette’. Row 1 (RS): *K2tog in back of st, slip only the first of the 2 sts off needle; rep from *, knitting each second st together with the following st, until only one loop remains on the left-hand needle; end k1.
Row 2. *P2tog, slip only the first of the two sts off needle; rep from *, purling each second st together with the following st, until only one loop remains on the left-hand needle; end p1.
Seed Stitch: (easy)
Also a member of the k1 p1 family, with the same rules and usually done across an even number of stitches. Row 1, k1, p1 across. Row 2: Repeat Row 1. (In other words, you should k where you previously k and p where you previously p.
Also sometimes called ‘broken ribbing.’
There are hundreds of combinations of knitting stitches and I can post some more basic ones if you’d like. Just ask.
Casting off:
Now, how do you get those pretty stitches off the needle when you’re done with them? That’s called casting (or binding) off. Like everything else, there are several ways to do it. I’ll start with the easiest and most common, then share a couple of other techniques with you as well.
Videos: http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/bind-off.php
Note: when you work with a pattern stitch it’s usually best to bind off in the pattern (whatever technique you prefer) so the edge doesn’t look bumpy or like a mistake. Nothing is worse than that perfect sweater with the ragged edge!
Lift Over Bind Off:
K2 sts, but do NOT slide the second st off the left needle when you’re done. Using your right needle, lift the first stitch over the second stitch and drop it off your right needle. Continue this until the end, when you have 1 st left. Cut a small strand of yarn and using your finger, or a yarn needle, thread that through the last loop. Pull tight and weave in the ends. The process is the same whether you’re knitting or purling (obviously with p, you’d p2 instead of k2), so it’s very easy to learn and use. You don’t even have to learn any other methods if you don’t want to!
Decrease Bind Off:
(Used to create an even but un-stretchy edge – recommended for cables)
On a knit row: K1, *slip the next st kwise, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of row.
On a purl row: P1, *slip it back to the source needle, p2tog. Repeat from * to end of row.
Stepped Bind Off:
(Best for angled edges, such as necklines or shoulders)
*One row before the next bo row, work to the last stitch on the row. Do not work this stitch. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch from left needle p-wise. Pass the unworked stitch over the slipped stitch. Continue bind-off. * Repeat from * for every BO row you want sloped.
Suspended Bind Off:
Slip or knit the first stitch. Knit the next. *pass the first stitch over the second, leaving the passed stitch on the left needle. Knit one, and slide passed stitch and knit stitch off the left needle. Repeat from *.
Homework:
1. Practice these techniques on some scrap swatches.
2. Start your scarf project (attached pdf) This is not due for two weeks, so don't panic. If you need more time, please post back and if enough people ask, I'll give more time.
I’m going to cover various standard stitch patterns in knitting. All of them combine k and p. This’ll be a great chance to practice.
Standard Patterns:
Stockinette Stitch: (easy)
We’ve already covered garter stitch, but now we’ll cover the signature stitch for knitting – the stockinette. 95% of the time, this is what you’ll be using in your projects (abbreviated ‘st st’ or ‘k1 row p1 row’ in most patterns.) It’s a very simple design: on the first row you knit across all stitches, then the second row you purl across, repeating as necessary until you’ve reached the length you need. It gives the distinctive ‘v’ pattern on the front of your project.
First issue: remember that stockinette rolls. This is simply the nature of the pattern and there's nothing you can do to stop it from rolling. So if you're knitting anything you want to lie flat, don't knit stockinette! (Or just block it out afterwards with warm water and some pins to solve it.) Think about the yarn itself you've selected. Is it a novelty yarn with eyelashes? Don't bother with anything other than the simplest of stitch patterns as it will not be discernible; if you're knitting a scarf or afghan, remember you want it to lie flat. A smooth cotton or wool, on the other hand, calls for a more elaborate stitch pattern; stockinette will soon bore the knitter and the eye.
Ribbing: (easy) (See pic)
Ribbing is the next easiest form of pattern knitting. It is the stretchy part of a sweater, often found on the cuffs, neck or hemline. It is done k1, p1 in the same row. Then on the reverse side, you p1 k1. In other words, you k where you p on the row previous and vice versa. It’s best at first to do your ribbing with an odd number of co stitches (i.e 45, or 57) so you can remember what stitch comes next when you switch rows. As the pattern progresses it’ll be easier to keep track.
More complex/larger versions can be k2, p2; k3, p1; p3, k1, etc and so forth. You’re limited only by imagination.
Please note: when you switch between knit and purl in the same row, you have to bring the yarn from the front to the back or vice versa for each stitch, depending on what you are doing. When you switch from knit to purl, you must bring your yarn to the back before starting the next stitch; from purl to knit, reverse that. To do this: pass the yarn between the points of the needles. Do not lay the strand of yarn across the top of the needle as it’s likely to be mistaken for another stitch and then you end up doing an increase.
Basketweave: (easy) (see pic)
Similar to rib, basketweave is done with k and p in the same row. The same rule about moving your yarn from front to back applies here too. Since this is in counts of five, it’s best to have your co stitches be in 5’s as well (25, 40, 55, etc)
Row 1: k5, p5, rep to end. Row 2: p5, k5 to end.
Herringbone: (intermediate) (see pic)
Sometimes called the ‘double stockinette’. Row 1 (RS): *K2tog in back of st, slip only the first of the 2 sts off needle; rep from *, knitting each second st together with the following st, until only one loop remains on the left-hand needle; end k1.
Row 2. *P2tog, slip only the first of the two sts off needle; rep from *, purling each second st together with the following st, until only one loop remains on the left-hand needle; end p1.
Seed Stitch: (easy)
Also a member of the k1 p1 family, with the same rules and usually done across an even number of stitches. Row 1, k1, p1 across. Row 2: Repeat Row 1. (In other words, you should k where you previously k and p where you previously p.
Also sometimes called ‘broken ribbing.’
There are hundreds of combinations of knitting stitches and I can post some more basic ones if you’d like. Just ask.
Casting off:
Now, how do you get those pretty stitches off the needle when you’re done with them? That’s called casting (or binding) off. Like everything else, there are several ways to do it. I’ll start with the easiest and most common, then share a couple of other techniques with you as well.
Videos: http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/bind-off.php
Note: when you work with a pattern stitch it’s usually best to bind off in the pattern (whatever technique you prefer) so the edge doesn’t look bumpy or like a mistake. Nothing is worse than that perfect sweater with the ragged edge!
Lift Over Bind Off:
K2 sts, but do NOT slide the second st off the left needle when you’re done. Using your right needle, lift the first stitch over the second stitch and drop it off your right needle. Continue this until the end, when you have 1 st left. Cut a small strand of yarn and using your finger, or a yarn needle, thread that through the last loop. Pull tight and weave in the ends. The process is the same whether you’re knitting or purling (obviously with p, you’d p2 instead of k2), so it’s very easy to learn and use. You don’t even have to learn any other methods if you don’t want to!
Decrease Bind Off:
(Used to create an even but un-stretchy edge – recommended for cables)
On a knit row: K1, *slip the next st kwise, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of row.
On a purl row: P1, *slip it back to the source needle, p2tog. Repeat from * to end of row.
Stepped Bind Off:
(Best for angled edges, such as necklines or shoulders)
*One row before the next bo row, work to the last stitch on the row. Do not work this stitch. Turn the work. Slip the first stitch from left needle p-wise. Pass the unworked stitch over the slipped stitch. Continue bind-off. * Repeat from * for every BO row you want sloped.
Suspended Bind Off:
Slip or knit the first stitch. Knit the next. *pass the first stitch over the second, leaving the passed stitch on the left needle. Knit one, and slide passed stitch and knit stitch off the left needle. Repeat from *.
Homework:
1. Practice these techniques on some scrap swatches.
2. Start your scarf project (attached pdf) This is not due for two weeks, so don't panic. If you need more time, please post back and if enough people ask, I'll give more time.