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MystyPines
June 5th, 2001, 03:07 PM
Merry Meet!!!!

Anyone here make soap? I am curious to know how involved it is. I currently make herbal candles, and was thinking of adding to my line of products handcrafted herbal soaps. Interested to hear from soap makers here. Thanks!

Bright Blessings!

magicbabs
June 5th, 2001, 05:44 PM
I make soap. I use different types of base oils and add essential oils and fresh herbs.

If I can find my diskette - I will send you a basic natural soap (of course you have to use Lye - which reacts with water and oils to produce the chemical reaction to make soap).

Then there is Brushy Mountain Bee Farm. They sell glycerine soap and raw bees wax. They have a web page. Glycerine soap only requires that you heat it up and add color and scents (usually artificial - I don't like artificial scents so I don't use this medium much). The sell molds for candles and soap too.

Babs

Yvonne Belisle
June 5th, 2001, 10:14 PM
Wildchild and I make soaps as well. I'm a beginner so you may want to pm Wildchild.

Lavender
June 6th, 2001, 01:51 AM
I'm here!! I make soap too! Can't see myself EVER going back to commercial soaps. It's fun & not as hard as people think it is. You have to be careful working with lye & wear gloves but once you get the basic technique down, there's no stopping you.

The one thing about making your own soap is that if you're not using a pre-measured kit, you will need an accurate scales. If you're making soap from scratch, you need to be pretty accurate in your measurements. Check out www.cranberrylane.com - they have kits & bulk oils as well. Kits are a great way to start...you can learn the technique without worrying about measurements.

There's a really good soapmaking book called "Soapmaker's Companion" by Susan Miller Cavitch. Check at your local library for this one. Her recipes are quite huge & I find her lye discounts high but the techniques & info are really good.

If you need any specific info, let me know.

Emy
June 6th, 2001, 04:39 AM
Oh I would love to make my own soap :)
At Panduro (a swedish store) they've got a soap making kit, and it is all natural things in it, and you can add your own herbs and everything, it is real neat! But since I am a little short on money right now, that will have to wait some...

You can buy wonderful soaps at Lush if you got that overthere, I now that there is Lush stores in London anyways, so perhaps in the states aswell, they have got lots of soaps, there own shampoo, facial wash and lots more... Love that place!

Blessings

Kiya
June 6th, 2001, 07:54 AM
bought a little company in my home town called Cosmetics-to-Go. They had a little shop in town, but everywhere else they sold by mail-order. I used to walk to work, and buy tiny quantities of freshly made skin products on the way home. the products were made with all fresh and natural ingrediants, and had no preservatives (you had to keep them in the fridge and they would only last a week at most) but they were gorgeous.

They also sold the most beautiful soaps, and one contained ginger and honey - I've still got a tiney bit left. When Lush bought them, they stopped some of the C-T-G products.

Emy
June 6th, 2001, 07:58 AM
Originally posted by Kiya

They also sold the most beautiful soaps, and one contained ginger and honey - I've still got a tiney bit left. When Lush bought them, they stopped some of the C-T-G products.



Really? Thats too bad... they do have those facial masks etc here though, and you have to keep them in the fridge and they are perservative free, hope they wont stop with those here, cause they are just great!

Blessed be

MystyPines
June 6th, 2001, 09:12 AM
Well, the type of soaps I would like to "attempt" to make would be the natural/herbal soaps made in squares, with Milk(?). They are not gylcerine, but have a creamy white texture to them, with herbs, etc. throughout them. Do all soaps, even the milk based ones use Lye? Is Lye a harsh chemical?

:)

Lavender
June 7th, 2001, 01:34 AM
Yes, all soaps are made with lye. How it works it that soap is really a salt. X number of oil molecules with react with Y number of lye molecules. The amount of lye used will depend on the oils you're using. A lye discount is when you have a percentage of oil more than the amount of lye. A zero percentage means that all the oils have reacted with all the lye. 6% discount means that there is 6% more oil than lye & your soap is not caustic and is gentle to your skin. Don't be afraid of working with lye. If you wear gloves & goggles you should be fine. Also, keep a bottle of vinegar on hand just in case. Vinegar will neutralize the lye in case it does splash a bit on you.

The soaps I make are all natural vegetable based soaps. They are not as hard as tallow soap but I like it better...

Another misconception is that the "glycerine" soaps are better. All handmade soaps are glycerin soaps. Glycerin is a naturally occuring alcohol from the soap process. In commercial soaps, the natural glycerin is removed & sold separately. So, all your handmade soaps are considered glycerin soaps. The glycerine stuff that you buy & remelt (Melt & Pour) have a lot of chemical & gunk in it to keep it stable from all that melting & reheating & whatnot. Personally, I would not considered that natural. One ingredient in it is propolene glycol (can't spell it).

I'll look through my recipes for a good basic soap. Do you want it posted here or in the Green Room?

MystyPines
June 7th, 2001, 10:58 AM
Merry Meet WildChild!!!

That would be great! I guess we should post the Recipe in the Green Room! Thanks!

Bright Blessings!

Kaylara
June 7th, 2001, 11:00 AM
Moving this thread to the Green Room...

Kaylara

EasternPriest
June 7th, 2001, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by Wildchild

The glycerine stuff that you buy & remelt (Melt & Pour) have a lot of chemical & gunk in it to keep it stable from all that melting & reheating & whatnot. Personally, I would not considered that natural. One ingredient in it is propolene glycol (can't spell it).



just as an FYI ......propolene glycol, and it's cousin ethylene glycol, are the primary ingredients in radiator antifreeze.

Lavender
June 8th, 2001, 02:47 AM
Thanks, Easternpriest...I couldn't remember the other one & didn't want to go look it up. It's amazing what gets passed off as natural!:bad:

Here's a recipe for a good basic soap...the weights are in grams (being Canadian, we're stuck with this...)

425 gms olive oil, pomace grade-don't use virgin or extra virgin
300 gms coconut oil
275 gms palm oil
15 gms unbleached beeswax
146 gms lye (sodium hydroxide)
380 gms distilled water

equipment:
-large stainless steel or enamel or glass pot big enough to hold 4 litres (don't use plastic, tin, teflon, iron, or aluminum).
-heat resistant pitcher or deep bowl for mixing the lye & water.
-2 candy thermometer...if you have 1, that's ok too (0-220 deg F)
-safety goggles & rubber gloves
-bottle of vinegar (just in case)
-2 heavy duty rubber spatulas
-empty & clean milk carton (the wax paper kind) to use for your soap mold. These are perfect because you don't have to line them with anything.

Before you start, make sure the cat is NOT going to jump up on your counter, the kids are not going to run through the kitchen, etc & wear long sleeves. Lye is dangerous but with caution, you should have no problems. Make sure the kitchen is well ventulated.

Measure out your lye & set aside. Measure out your water in your heat proof container. Carefully add the lye to the water while stirring with one of your spatulas. If you can, do this outside or near an open window or under the vent. Don't breath in the fumes! Stir until all the crystals have disolved. The solution will heat up to 180 deg F or higher. Set it aside in a safe place. Check temp with thermometer.

Measure out your oils in your large pot. Some are solids & some are liquid. Heat very gently over LOW heat. Stir to break up the solids. Don't let it get too hot or splatter. Check temp with thermometer.

Ok, this part is a bit more tricky...you want to have the lye water temp & the oil temp to reach the same temp of 135 deg F. So the lye water has to cool down to that temp & the oil has to be heated to that temp. You may have to do a juggle of cooling the lye water in a cold water bath (careful the pitcher doesn't tip over) and heating the oil to reach the same temp at the same time. If the lye water cooled down too far, heat it up in a hot water bath. You sort of have to juggle the two until they're the same.

Once you reach the temp, carefully pour the lye water into the pot with the oil, stirring at the same time. You will see the mixture turns cloudy. Keep stirring until the soap traces. Tracing is when the soap thickens to almost a pudding consistency & as you dribble soap across the surface, it sits on the surface before sinking down. This may take anything from 15 mins to 30 mins. Once you've reached trace, you can now add essential oils and or herbs. You still don't want to touch the soap mixture...it's caustic right now. If you're using essential oils or herbs, take out a small amount ~ cup's worth or so. Mix in your extras & mix back into the main pot. You have to work quickly here so make sure you have all your ingredients ready beforehand. At the point, you can pour your soap into the mould. If this is your first batch, I would recommend the wax milk cartons. You don't have to worry about oiling & lining the containers. Once the soap is ready to come out, you just peel off the paper & you have a perfect block of soap. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself here. Once you've poured the soap into the cartons, close them up & wrap them with a couple of old towels or blankets. Place them in a warm, safe spot. Wait 24 hours & check. Your soap should be fairly solid & can be peeled out of the mould. Depending on your weather, it may take an extra day or so. Let the soap cure for three weeks before using. You can cut the soap into bars but don't use until the 3 weeks are up. The soap is still caustic at that point...it has to finish going through the final stages. After that, it should be a nice gentle soap.

For your first batch, I usually recomend not getting too fancy...learn the technique first & then go wild!


But do check out the Cranberry Lane website. They have lots of recipes & instructions as well.

MystyPines
June 8th, 2001, 10:03 AM
WildChild!

This is wonderful, Thank you so much, I am printing it now!

Great!

Bright Blessings!:p

MystyPines
June 13th, 2001, 09:21 AM
Do all soaps have Glycerin in them? I found one of those soap making kits. It is Glycerin, but it is not clear, it is white. Is this a safe thing to have in soap? Also, I have seen the word M & P used. What does M & P mean? One last question, how do you get your soaps shape to be rectangular? Can I use a loaf pan from my kitchen?

Mariposa De La Luna
June 13th, 2001, 11:12 AM
I was wondering if you need to dedicate your pan for just soap making. We were think of doing it with the stuff in the store but now that I've read this post I think we'll do it this way.

Lavender
June 14th, 2001, 09:53 PM
All homemade soaps have the glycerin in it. Glycerin is a natural humectant...something that draws moistures...which you want. Glycerine (with an "e") is a synthetic product & has all sort of chemical stuff which I can't recall. "M & P" is Melt & Pour. It is called a glycerine soap that you can grate down & remelt to whatever shapes & sizes you want. They do have propylene glycol & ethylene glycol & glycerine in it to keep it stable. Homemade transpaent glycerin soaps cannot be remelted over & over again like M & P and keep it's clearness. M & P are fun to do if you're wanting to do all sorts of fun & funky things with your soap. Because you're not working with lye here, kids can use it to make fun soaps to give away. For a fun & short term use, it's probably ok but if you're looking for a good natural soap, I wouldn't recomend it. Sort of comparing it with fast food as opposed to cooking a wholesome meal. :D

If you're making your soap from scratch, don't use any teflon or aluminum materials. I wouldn't even recomend using a stainless steel loaf pan either. It would be very hard to get your soap out of the mould. You can use plastic rubbermaid sandwich containers too. Just grease it a bit with shortening, line it with butcher's paper (brown paper on one side, shiney waxy side on the other). Line it with the brown paper side down & waxy side up. That way, the paper will stick to your mould, the waxy side will stick to your soap, & it pops out quite easily. Just peel the paper off & cut into whatever size or shape bars you want.

If you're using the M&P stuff, you don't need to dedicate a pan for the soap. I use old plastic containers that I don't use for food anymore just to be on the safe side. The milk cartons are still the best thing...no greasing & such.

p.s. I should clarify this...you don't want to use any containers that aren't flexible in case you have any problems getting your soap out.

MystyPines
June 16th, 2001, 10:02 AM
.....furiously taking down notes on soapmaking.

Thank you again WildChild!

:D

MystyPines
June 18th, 2001, 10:32 AM
Merry Meet!

Well, I made a batch of soap, and had problems with the soaps that I added dried herbs to. I added lavender to one, Heather to another and rose petals to another. After about 5 days, they began to bleed in the soap. Also, the soaps seem very sweaty. I used a Melt & Pour vegetable glycerin base. How do I make the soaps less sweaty? Do I add anything to give it a dryer consistency? Thanks!

Lavender
June 18th, 2001, 10:56 PM
By "bleeding" do you mean the colour of the herb runs into the soap? Some herbs will bleed into the soaps. You'll find that after a while, some will even turn brown. As for the sweating, it just needs to dry more. It also will depend on your weather conditions as well. Are you doing them in individual moulds or one big mould & then cutting them later?

Silver Venus
June 19th, 2001, 07:21 AM
Whildchild you always have the best recipes!!! :D Thanks so much!!!
Ive always wanted to make my own soap with my Aromatherapy oils and now youve all put in me the mood ~ so Im writting my shopping list and hopping down to the shops soon!!

Heres one Ive found ~

Lavender and Rosemary Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of lavender flowers and rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons of lavender oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of rosemary oil
1 teaspoon pulverized dried rosemary

Instructions
Melt soap base and add other ingredients. Stir until blended, then pour into molds.
(Infusion basically means to make tea. Pour hot water over fresh or dried plant parts. Three tablespoons of herb per cup of water for ten minutes should do fine. Use distilled water, if possible. Nonchlorinated water is best. )
:D

MystyPines
June 19th, 2001, 04:10 PM
Hi WildChild!

I made my first set of soaps from a clear plastic soap mold that makes 1 single soap. And, after 1 hour of drying I placed them in plastic baggies. The herbs I used are very dry herbs and the bleeding looks like a brownish colors, which doesn't look attractive to me. I have seen other herbal soaps with herbs and never saw this bleeding before. hmmm.

Yvonne Belisle
June 19th, 2001, 06:49 PM
I've bought herbal soaps before and seen the bleeding before. I like it but I'm wierd that way.:D

Lavender
June 20th, 2001, 01:21 AM
Originally posted by MystyPines
Hi WildChild!

I made my first set of soaps from a clear plastic soap mold that makes 1 single soap. And, after 1 hour of drying I placed them in plastic baggies. The herbs I used are very dry herbs and the bleeding looks like a brownish colors, which doesn't look attractive to me. I have seen other herbal soaps with herbs and never saw this bleeding before. hmmm.

Aha! That explains the sweating...the baggies. The soaps should be air-dried, out of the baggies.

As to the bleeding herbs...the other herbal soaps, were they handmade soaps or commercial soaps. Lavender is definitely a herb that will go brown & bleed a bit. :D I always thought it looked more "rustic" to me. I will ask around...I work parttime at a soap making place & there's a couple of master soapmakers there.

Lavender
June 20th, 2001, 01:23 AM
That lavender & rosemary soap will smell wonderful! Of course I'm just saying that 'coz it's my favourite combo! :p

Silver Venus
June 20th, 2001, 05:44 AM
Glad its your fav too Wildchild :)
I got all my ingredients yesterday ~ Im going to make Lavender and Rosemary candles too! So my ingredients will double up well! I just couldnt find any dried Rosemary or Lavender ~ all sold out I think ~ so Ill have to make them without this time.

I found some good moulds for my canldes but couldnt seem to find any for my soap ~ can I just use plastic soap dishes? or even a baking tin? Then cut up the soap into slices? Because Ive seen this done before...

MystyPines
June 20th, 2001, 11:27 AM
Thanks Wild Child!

I will make sure I let the soaps dry longer. This may also help reduce the bleeding of the dried herbs if the soap is less sweaty. I guess I wrapped them quickly because I read somewhere that you should seal them in plastic right away to keep the scent retained in the soap. Thanks Again!

MystyPines
June 20th, 2001, 11:29 AM
Ooooooo, more soap questions.

With the Melt and Pour Opague Glycerin soap base, can you add other additives or ingredients to it such as Cocobutter, shea butter, Vitamin E, goats milk, cow milk, etc?

Could anyone give a list of additives (such as oils, etc.) good for the skin that can be added to Glycerin soap base?

Thanks!
:p

Lavender
June 21st, 2001, 12:07 AM
Ok, I found out that the browning & bleeding is caused by high temperatures. A suggestion was that for the M & P base, you might want to let your soap mixture cool a bit before adding in the herbs. It might help.

I don't really know a lot about glycerine soap base (M & P) & how it would be if you add in extra oil & such. I don't use it very much. The process is very much like rebatching or handmilling of any homemade soap. You should be able to add extra oils in it. In rebatching soaps, I don't recomend adding any more than 1 tbsp of extra oils. The extra oils can go rancid over time. Although, there are preservatives in M & P so it might be ok. As to milk & any food products, I wouldn't recomend it...too easy for it to go bad. Having said that, experiment, go wild, but keep notes. You should see some of my experiments! :eek:

Shea butter & cocoa butter are excellent for dry skin! Shea butter is very high in Vit E & is especially good for dry skin. Vit E is good too...as an antioxidant & to promote cell growth. You can try adding a good skin essential oil. Palmarosa, frankinsense, myrrh, patchouli, benzoin, geranium, rose, etc. These are all good for dry skin (or any other skin types). Also, the base note essential oils will act as a fixative to hold the scents in your soaps longer.

Silver V - if you're using the glycerine soap base, you should be ok to use the plastic soap dishes. I usually stay away from metals...especially teflon, aluminum & tin. Also, if you use a rigid mould, it may be harder to free your soap from it. You can't twist it to get the mould to release. No fun having to scrape your wonderful hard work out of a container! :bad: (been there, done that!)

Silver Venus
June 21st, 2001, 05:56 AM
Thanks :) thats a great help! Ill try at the weekend ~ probally Saturday and use a plastic soap dish ~ getting excited now!

Another question :rolleyes: Do you know if you can put glitter or some kind of shimmery powder into hand made soaps to make your skin shine like those expensive fashionable soaps you see in the soaps now? That would be really fun I think.
And I was also thinking last night that you may be able to mix two soaps together? Maybe grate one red soap and put it into the mixture of the soap you are making (white) ~ does this work well? I think it may look lovely :)

Lavender
June 21st, 2001, 11:48 PM
Hi Silver V!

Oh yes! You definitely can mix in more than one colour...You can swirl the mixture & get a marbled effect. Really neat looking results.

As for the glitter powder...I don't know anything about that. I would wonder how safe is that for your skin. Never seen the soaps so I was wondering if the glitter powder would just wash away? Mostly when I make soaps & lotions, I keep it rather plain & simple. Most of the people that uses my soaps & such are allergic to a lot of commercial perfumes & synthetics.

Here's a recipe for body glitter body gel. Someone gave me this recipe but I haven't tried it yet...I was thinking of making a batch for my neice.

1/2 cup aloe vera gel
1 tsp jojoba oil
1/4 tsp fin polyester glitter (do not substitute metal glitter)
1/4 tsp glycerin
1 drop food colouring (optional) - don't use more than a drop...can stain your skin.

Combine aloe vera gel, jojoba oil, glitter, & glycerin in a small bowl. For a special touch, add one drop of food colouring to tint the formula. Stir until well blended. Store in a bottle. Be careful not to get any of this in your eyes.

Silver Venus
June 22nd, 2001, 06:38 AM
Thanks darl :) I will deffinately give the marble colour mix I go!! Ive just got to make my first batch up first! Im really excited :D
Not so sure about the glitter now myself..just one of my off the wall ideas!
Wish me luck for this weekend ~ making my candles and soap! Ive got two friends coming up next week too, so if all goes to plan I'll have some guinea pigs to try out my new creations on!

MystyPines
June 22nd, 2001, 01:16 PM
Has anyone made an Oatmeal, Milk & Honey Soap? And, do you use real honey in the recipe?

:)

Lavender
June 23rd, 2001, 03:37 AM
Originally posted by MystyPines
Has anyone made an Oatmeal, Milk & Honey Soap? And, do you use real honey in the recipe?

:)

Yes, the soaps are very nice. Yes, you use real honey. Are you thinking of doing it the M & P base or adding to soap made from scratch?

Honey has active ingredients of enzymes, vitamines & minerals. High temperatures (above 100 deg F) can destroy these goodies. So if you're making soap from scratch, add honey after the trace. If you're using a rebatch method, or the M&P base, wait until the mixture has cooled a little bit. You don't want to add too much...no more than 2 tsp of honey per 1 pound of soap. Otherwise, the excess honey will ooze out of the bars. :sick: Also, keep in mind that the honey & milk will make your bars softer. Use long cooking oats or rolled oats for your soaps. The quick-cooking kind will turn your soap into a gooey mess! Grind the oats into small pieces.

The type of milk you choose will also affect the colour of your soaps, as well as the honey & oatmeal. Cow's milk is more of a yellowish & goats & lambs milk is more a chalky white colour. You can replace all or a percentage of the water use with milk. Make sure the milk is the fresh as possible. Usually, when I make milk soaps, I make it from scratch...less worries about the milk spoiling. When I rebatch, it's done with all natural veggie based soap that I've made & since I know there's no preservatives in it, I add a bit of grapefruit seed extract for preservative. I don't use this method this very often for milk soaps. The grapefruit seed extract will help a bit but the milk can still spoil & go rancid. If you're using M&P base, I don't know if you will need any preservatives. I really don't know a lot about M&P.

I know of one soapmaker that made milk soap with breast milk! She said it was excellent! :eek: Can't imagine using breast milk in soaps...that stuff is like liquid gold! (Ask any mom here...) :D

If anyone's interested in making milk soaps from scratch, I'll dig up my recipe for it.

Sunday's Child
June 23rd, 2001, 06:41 PM
Yes Wildchild, please give us the recipe for milk soap.. I'm just starting to get into this. This is fun!!

Silver Venus, how did your soap turn out?

Lavender
June 24th, 2001, 01:24 AM
I found my recipe but I'm going to have to re-check my calculations first & make sense of the the scribbles on it. It's one of those "work in progress" thing. :D

(BTW, keep notes...if you don't, you'll never remember how you got that perfect soap!)

Well, you guys have inspired me to get off the computer & make a batch of laundry soap tonight. how exciting. :rolleyes:

Sunday's Child
June 24th, 2001, 08:30 AM
Okay Wildchild, you know all about soap making,can you tell me what saponifaction is?

MystyPines
June 24th, 2001, 08:10 PM
WildChild you have been a great source of information!!! Thank you!

I was able to purchase a goats milk Melt & Pour base, also I purchased Aloe Vera Melt & Pour and also Coconut Oil Melt & Pour. I can't wait to get started!!!!!

:)

Lavender
June 24th, 2001, 11:52 PM
Originally posted by Sunday's Child
Okay Wildchild, you know all about soap making,can you tell me what saponifaction is?

:rolleyes: Well, I don't know ALL about soapmaking.
:D But I can tell you what saponification is...

Saponification is the chemical reaction between your fats & oils (an acid) and your lye & water mixture (a base). It's what happens when your oils & fats come together with your lye mixture. The mixture will starts to thicken up & look heavier. Sap value is the amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) needed to react (or saponifies) with 1 gram of oil/fat. You calculate the amount of KOH needed for the total recipe, convert it to sodium hydroxide.

When you have "x" amount of lye to saponify with "y" amount of oils, you have a 0% lye discount. When you have (for example) a 6% lye discount, you have 6% less lye to react with the "y" amount of oil. The higher the lye discount, the more oil is left unsaponified & the more gentler on your skin. But the drawback is that your soap is more likely to go rancid with all that extra oils. A 6% lye discount is a good average.

There's a lot of lye calculators on the web...you just plug in the amount of your oils/fats & they calculate your lye for you. I like to check the calculations because not all the lye calculators posted are correct. There's a good one at Cranberrylane.com

Sunday, if you're interested in working out your own recipe, let me know.

Heheh! You ask a question & I ramble off...

Sunday's Child
June 25th, 2001, 09:52 AM
Thanks Wildchild, you're great as usual. I do want to work on my own recipe, but not yet.Boy, I could really get into this!

MystyPines
June 26th, 2001, 04:11 PM
Hello Again!

I have a question regarding soap colorants -- pigments/dyes/gels. I am looking to give my soaps natural earthy tones. The soap coloring I purchased is a liquid and comes in Blue, Red and Yellow. Are there colorants that come in coppers, olives, tans, browns, ivory?

Thanks!

Sunday's Child
June 26th, 2001, 04:30 PM
What kind do you use?Several types of dyes are available for soap making. Candle dyes and regular fabric dyes are the most common. Food dyes may also be used, but with less satisfactory results. What about no dye at all? Or,pastel colors tend to look paler and more natural than those with harsh primary colors. Anyway, I don't know... Wildchild probably knows more info...

MystyPines
June 26th, 2001, 04:45 PM
Thanks Sunday'sChild!
I do have candle dye cakes, but I am a bit weary of using it in soap, not sure if it is safe for skin. I searched the internet and came across powders which go by the names of Black Oxide, Brown Oxide, and came across some called Ultramarine. Then, they had gels which I am not sure if that is only to be used in a transparent glycerin M&P soap base. I am using a M&P Goat's Milk Base product.

:p

magicbabs
June 26th, 2001, 06:49 PM
The colorant that comes in Blue, Red and Yellow are for creating most of the colors. If you want a nice natural color - use a few drops of yellow and one of red.

Blue and yellow will make green...blue yellow and red will make black/brown/dark blue.

Yellow and red a nice orange -

Just play with the colors and you can come up with great colors.

If you go to a local craft shop, you can get a book on color theory - or try a watercolor book. They have the combo's needed to create nice shades.

I would not use candle color. It is not good for your skin.

I tend to use a lot of herbs to mix with the milk soap base. Cinnamon and marigolds add a nice copper to sponified soap.

Babs

Sunday's Child
June 26th, 2001, 07:01 PM
Thanks, Babs, that helps me out alot too. I love to use herbs in my soap and just about everything.

Lavender
June 28th, 2001, 03:03 AM
:eek: Don't use fabic dyes, food colourings, tempera paints, candle dyes! Some of these dyes can contain harmful toxins that can be absorbed into your skin. Others can stain your skin. You can try using natural herbs & spices but even then, use them in moderation. Some people can be sensitive to even natural herbs & spices.

Lavender
June 28th, 2001, 03:09 AM
Ultramarines are FDA approved & supposed to be safe to use in soaps. They're a synthetic colourant & some soap makers have some concerns about them but I haven't heard anything definite. I've never used them myself so I can't comment too much about them. They do come in colours that are hard to achieve naturally & a little goes a long way.

Sunday's Child
June 28th, 2001, 08:50 AM
When is the best time to wrap your soap and what's the best kind of wrap to use?

magicbabs
June 28th, 2001, 02:55 PM
I bought a blue soap dye and it stained my towels. I test them out myself before selling or gift giving.

I bought the dye from a company that specialized in soaps. I have stayed away from the blue dyes ever since that time.

I tend to stay away from the colors and used natural things to dye my soap.

magicbabs
June 28th, 2001, 02:59 PM
I use computer printed strips of paper - 18 weight and 20 weight paper. The paper strip is glued with a hot glue gun. It shows the soap patterns which usually sells faster than when I covered the whole bar. People like to see the soap.

Try to tape the strip tightly on the bar. The bar evaporates and the strip slides. The bar will start slipping after a month if it is not on tightly.

Lavender
June 28th, 2001, 11:11 PM
You can wrap your soaps after the curing stage...3-4 weeks. My favourite way is to wrap it in plain brown paper. It allows your soaps to breath & continue drying without trapping moisture to the bar.

Magicbabs, that's a shame about the blue dye. If I do colour my soaps, I tend to stay with the natural colourants. Mostly I keep them plain. Blue is such a beautiful colour but it's hard to achieve naturally.

Here's the milk soap recipe:

Goat's Milk Soap (from scratch)
300 gms pomace grade olive oil
230 gms coconut oil
200 gms palm oil
274 gms goats milk
105 gms lye (this will give you ~5-6% discount)
Temp: fats/oil - 110 deg F, milk/lye solution - 125 deg F

You can follow the regular cold process procedure (posted earlier) and add the lye to the milk. You will have to whisk the solution to disolve the lye. Don't worry about the lumps...the lye is reacting to the fats in the milk. You can break the bigger lumps by whisking. The whole thing will smell really bad. Don't worry...the smell will fade after the bars have cured.


Goat's Milk soap (rebatch)
1/2 pound grated vegetable soap
1/2 cup goat's milk
1 tbsp shea butter

Melt the soap over a double boiler with the milk & shea butter. Stir gently & constantly to keep the milk from burning & scorching. When soap have melted, you can pour into moulds. It may take a while for the soap to melt.

magicbabs
June 29th, 2001, 11:16 AM
Wildchild - thanks for the great soap recipes.

I am going to try this one soon.

MystyPines
July 2nd, 2001, 02:37 PM
Hello Everyone!

I am using a Goat's Milk Melt & Pour base, and the problem I had when making Banana/Coconut soap is that the ground coconut settled at the bottom of the mold. Also, I made an Oatmeal, Milk & Honey batch, and the ground oats also settled at the bottom. How do I get these additives to mix evenly throughout the soap base? Thanks!

Lavender
July 3rd, 2001, 02:19 AM
Unfortunately, I'm not that familiar with melt & pour. I wonder if it can be thickened? The added ingredients doesn't stay mixed? I wonder if you let the mixture set a bit & then mix in the oatmeal or coconut if that would make a difference? :(

MystyPines
July 3rd, 2001, 10:01 PM
I thought about waiting for it to thicken, but then a skin (like pudding) forms on the top, and when I break throught it and begin mixing it around, I get large clumps through out the mixture, hmmm.

Socharis
July 4th, 2001, 04:35 AM
Is it cheaper than buying soap?
And is it much better?

Lavender
July 5th, 2001, 01:12 AM
MystyPines, once the soap mixture hardens, are the clumps noticable?

Socharis, I find making my own soaps worth it. I'm not sure if it's cheaper. If I'm buying commercial soap, then probably not but if I'm buying handmade soaps, then definitely yes! It's also the quality of your soaps too. My soaps are made from vegetable oils & I have no synthetic perfumes & such in them. I can custom make my soaps to suit everyone in my family or anyone else. I also make my own shampoo, liquid soaps, laundry soap, & cleansers. To me, it's not too different from cooking & just about as time consuming. Some people like to cook at home & some like to eat at restraunts. Same with soapmaking. :D

Sunday's Child
July 5th, 2001, 08:59 AM
Wildchild, if you don't mind me bugging you, how do you make laundry soap? I have never tried to.

Lavender
July 6th, 2001, 01:47 AM
Here's a recipe for laundry soap from Cranberry Lanes:

725 gms coconut oil
225 gms palm oil
174 gms lye
360 mls distilled water

You make the laundry soap the same way as regular cold process soap. If you need directions, let me know.

Temp for both oils & lye - 130 deg F
Trace ~ 30 mins
Mould time - 24 hours.

You don't need to cure this soap. It can be used immediately. Cut into bars & grate. Use 1 cup of grated soap per full load of laundry. Fill washer with hot water to the lowest water level. Add in 1 tbsp baking soda, 2 tbsp Borax per regular load. Let it agitate a bit & fill the washer to full with desired water temp. Add in your laundry & wash away! For whites, add 1/4 cup of Borax per load. Make sure you disolve borax in hot water before adding to washing machine.

CAUTION! Don't use this soap on your skin because it's slightly caustic! You should probably wear gloves when grating the soap.

Sunday's Child
July 6th, 2001, 08:51 AM
thanks Wildchild!!

Lavender
July 21st, 2001, 03:46 AM
How did everyone's soap turn out??

Faery-Wings
July 21st, 2001, 09:13 AM
This thread has me totally into making some soaps myself! And the candle thread has me wanting to make candles.

UGH! Why is there just not enough time in the day?:crazy:

I went to Cranberrylane.com....*sigh* what wonderful stuff! I want to try everythng! Has anyone used them to ship to the US?

How much time does it take to do a batch of soap? My son is going to Kdg and I can keep my daughter occupied for an hour or so, maybe I can do some in Sept....

And for a first time beginner, is it better to start out with the M & P or just dive in with the lye?

Sorry, I am so full of questions!

Chris

Lavender
July 25th, 2001, 02:32 AM
I would say dive right in with the lye stuff...well, not exactly dive in. The M & P is certainly easier, I think. I prefer to make my soaps from scratch. If you've never made soaps before, give yourself a few hours at least. No kids, no cats jumping on the counter. You want to be able to go from start to finish non stop. Read over the directions a few times first.


Have to 'fess up here...don't want anybody to think I'm trying to hide anything. I can't remember if I had already mentioned this or not but I work at Cranberry Lanes....every 2nd Sat...just for fun. I mean they pay me to talk about my hobby! I don't want people to think I suggested them because I get anything...I don't. I was a customer there long before I worked there.

Silver Venus
July 25th, 2001, 06:02 AM
Sorry I havent been on this thread in ages..must of been with all the problems with the site but I havent been getting the link through my mail...nevermind..here I am now! :)

My first batch (last month I think) turned out really good! I just had a bit of diffiuclty getting it out of the mould! So it wasnt exactly a perefect soap shape but worked brilliantly and Ive used it all up now, and Ive saved some for mixing some in with another one! :D
About a week later (I think!) I made another batch up with Fennel and Grapefruit oil lining the soap dish with brown lining paper first. This worked brilliantly because I could just pull out the paper and remove it from the soap! I chopped this one into three and gave my mum and sis one each calling it 'Wake up soap'. They loved it! Thanks to you guys starting this thread :)

Id now like to mix the bit of my Lavender and Rosemary soap into another blend to produce that marbled effect we were talking about ages ago... But would first like to make a coloured soap to mix in this white soap..
Wildchild do you have any advice of making coloured soap ~is it safe to use food dye? or can you buy something else to colour the soap?
:)

MystyPines
July 25th, 2001, 04:20 PM
Hello everyone! Back from Disney World! Missed you all!
Well, before I left for Florida, I made 2 batches of soaps using a square tupperware container. I used a Goats Milk Melt & Pour base. I made a Coconut-Banana soap adding to the Goats Milk base Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, 1 ripened banana, ground coconut, coconut milk. It smells great. No problem with sinking coconut at bottom of mold, it makes a great exfoliant and the vitamin e works with preserving the banana that I put through the blender before adding to the soap base. Then, I made a oatmeal, milk & honey soap using the goats milk base and added Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, organic honey, ground oats, and cinnamon. This one lathers up nice and soft and has a great scent! I am going to attempt to make a Chocolate/Amond soap using the goats milk base and will add Cocoa butter, Cocoa powder, ground almonds with a dash of Hersheys Chocolate fragrance made for soaps. I will let you know how it comes out. Oh, I purchased one of those wavy soap cutters and it gives the bars a nice look!

Bright Blessings!

MystyPines
July 25th, 2001, 04:23 PM
Hello everyone! Back from Disney World! Missed you all!
Well, before I left for Florida, I made 2 batches of soaps using a square tupperware container. I used a Goats Milk Melt & Pour base. I made a Coconut-Banana soap adding to the Goats Milk base Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, 1 ripened banana, ground coconut, coconut milk. It smells great. No problem with sinking coconut at bottom of mold, it makes a great exfoliant and the vitamin E works with preserving the banana that I put through the blender before adding to the soap base. Then, I made a oatmeal, milk & honey soap using the goats milk base and added Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, organic honey, ground oats, and cinnamon. This one lathers up nice and soft and has a great scent! I am going to attempt to make a Chocolate/Almond soap using the goats milk base and will add Cocoa butter, Cocoa powder, ground almonds with a dash of Hersheys Chocolate fragrance made for soaps. I will let you know how it comes out. Oh, I purchased one of those wavy soap cutters and it gives the bars a nice look!

Bright Blessings!

MystyPines
July 25th, 2001, 04:24 PM
Hello everyone! Back from Disney World! Missed you all!
Well, before I left for Florida, I made 2 batches of soaps using a square tupperware container. I used a Goats Milk Melt & Pour base. I made a Coconut-Banana soap adding to the Goats Milk base Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, 1 ripened banana, ground coconut, coconut milk. It smells great. No problem with sinking coconut at bottom of mold, it makes a great exfoliant and the vitamin E works with preserving the banana that I put through the blender before adding to the soap base. Then, I made a oatmeal, milk & honey soap using the goats milk base and added Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Vitamin E, organic honey, ground oats, and cinnamon. This one lathers up nice and soft and has a great scent! I am going to attempt to make a Chocolate/Almond soap using the goats milk base and will add Cocoa butter, Cocoa powder, ground almonds with a dash of Hersheys Chocolate fragrance made for soaps. I will let you know how it comes out. Oh, I purchased one of those wavy soap cutters and it gives the bars a nice look!

Bright Blessings!

MystyPines
July 25th, 2001, 04:24 PM
Sorry about the multiple posting, my keyboard got stuck! Oops!

Faery-Wings
July 25th, 2001, 04:46 PM
Welcome back Mysty! We missed you. I hope you had a great trip.
Your soaps sound absolutely yummy! And I am so inspired to try them. I think I am going to wait until next month when the credit card is clear and then go nuts and buy the stuff I need and just do it.

Thanks for all of the inspiration.
:sunny:

Chris

Silver Venus
July 26th, 2001, 06:37 AM
Disney World! Wow! Bet you had a great time on the rides and such fun going round :D I went about 5 years ago and loved it..really wanna go back ~ Im such a kid at heart still.
Welcome back! :)

Your soap sounds really yummy! Coconut, Almond, bannana and chocolate!!!! Youve totally inspired me to stop with the florals and go food! Do you have the gramms of the ingredients so I can have a go please?
Good luck with the wavy Chocolate one!
:D

Lavender
July 26th, 2001, 03:27 PM
Mysty, hope you had a great time! The soaps sounds great! Heh! I had made some chocolate soaps & did them in a chocolate mould. They look & smell so much like real chocolate that a little boy had tried to eat one. His response was that it was ok! :p

Dolphin's Eye
July 31st, 2001, 11:01 AM
Wow reading all this made me wanna start making soaps myself...! :-)

What about liquid soaps? How do you make them?

Lavender
August 2nd, 2001, 02:43 AM
Hi!

Silver Venus, don't use food colouring...it can stain sometimes. I think there's a posting or two on different things you can use to colour your soap. It's somewhere up there. Marbling your soaps is really neat! People really love the marbled stuff! :)

Anther thought for soap moulds is milk cartons...the waxy kind. You don't have to line them or oil them or anything. Just pour your soap in & let it harden. Peel away the paper & cut into bars! Great way to recycle. They also make good candle moulds too!

Lavender
August 2nd, 2001, 03:01 AM
You don't have to spend a lot of money on colourings for your soaps. Herbs & spices works great! Cinnamon gives a nice rich brown. Cocoa powder & coffee will do that also. Tumeric will give you a nice indian yellow. Powdered spirilina will give you green. Titanium dioxide will whiten your soaps. Any of the natural clays works well too - green, pink, red. Calendula petals will give you a nice pale yellow.

Lavender
August 2nd, 2001, 03:14 AM
Liquid soap...

100 gms of grated castille soap (pure olive oil soap)
1 cup boiling water
1 cup distilled water
1 tbsp of favourite herbs
2 tbsp Yucca root
3 tsp tragacanth gum
6 tsp vegetable glycerin
2 tbsp aloe vera gel

~40 drops of favourite essential oils (~2mls)

Make an infusion with your favourite herbs & yucca root & boiling water & let sit 20 mins. Strain & add your grated soap. Stir gently over low heat until soaps have disolved. Don't let it boil or scorch.

Add your trag gum to distilled water & beat until disolved. Add to soap mixture & add all other ingredients. Blend well.

Store the bulk of your liquid soap in the fridge. Keep a small bottle out to use.

Silver Venus
August 2nd, 2001, 05:31 AM
Thanks soo much!! I never thought about using natural herbs and spices to dye the soap! Ill give my next batch a go ~ Half with Cinamon and half with Tumeric I think!! :D
.. what about using a tiny bit a beetroot juice to make the soap pink/purple? would that be ok? Id really like to make a bright red, purple or pink one!

The milk carton idea is a really good one! Thank you!! I actually thought about using yogurt cartons but Im not a good 'saver' so I have never (other the last two months..) got round to saying enough to seperate and pour my mixture into.. Ill try my next batch with a milk carton!
& The liquid soap recipe sounds really good too!! Im all stocked up on shower gel at the moment as I buy shower gel base in bulk to make up with my essential oils.. but I will deffinately save and print this recipe and give it a whirl on a rainy day!! Thank you once again hun!
:sunny:

Sunday's Child
August 2nd, 2001, 09:12 AM
This is great Wildchild. What is tragacanth gum?
I so want to make or try the soap making. I just need more time in the day. I'm gonna get to it sooner or later. You always have great recipes and know so much about herbs, I'm green with envy of you. ( ha ha just kidding) but I do respect your knowledge and thank you for sharing it.

Faery-Wings
August 13th, 2001, 08:20 AM
I ended up trying the M&P. I figured there no way possible I was going to get a few uninterrupted hours to try the lye soaps. Someday I will, when the kids are out of the house. Oh, then I will have grandchildren LOL! :p

Anyway, I made a lavender, lemon and rosemary bar, a tea tree oil and green tea bar and a clay based bar with german chamomile oil. They smell wonderful, and I don't want to wait the 2 weeks til they are cured to use them. :)

I do have a question though. I melted the soap cubes first, and then let it cool slightly and then stirred in the herbs and oils. The first bar ended up getting really hard and lumpy before I even got the soap in the mold. Then I didn't let them cool as much but even then, the first part of the bar would pour nicely and then in a flash it got really stringy and hard.

I tried melting in the microwave and then in a double boiler thinking that maybe it wasn't melted evenly. But it happened with both methods. I dunno! *shrug*Any ideas?

Thanks!

Chris

MystyPines
August 14th, 2001, 04:00 PM
Hi Chryssi!

I have been working with Melt & Pour for only 1 month now. I haven't had a problem with the soap base hardening too quickly. I use the microwave and I melt 8 lbs at one time (using a mold that makes (18) 4 oz. bars). I have been adding my additives, herbs, colors and fragrances, while the soap base is still very hot and watery and I also pour when it is still in liquid form. I have heard some people pour when it is thick (like brownie batter). What size batches are you making? Maybe it is cooling so quickly because you are making 1 bar at a time? hmmmm. Not sure.

Faery-Wings
August 15th, 2001, 07:09 AM
Originally posted by MystyPines
Hi Chryssi!

I have been working with Melt & Pour for only 1 month now. I haven't had a problem with the soap base hardening too quickly. I use the microwave and I melt 8 lbs at one time (using a mold that makes (18) 4 oz. bars). I have been adding my additives, herbs, colors and fragrances, while the soap base is still very hot and watery and I also pour when it is still in liquid form. I have heard some people pour when it is thick (like brownie batter). What size batches are you making? Maybe it is cooling so quickly because you are making 1 bar at a time? hmmmm. Not sure.

Thanks Mysty! :)

Yes, I bet you are right and it has to do with making one bar at a time. I figured I would start out very small scale and work my way up. So I have one small mold and I only bought one pound of soap. I guess I had better get some more materials LOL!

Where do you purchase your stuff? I went to Rag Shop and Michaels(craft stores if they are not in your area) and it is $9 for one pound of soap. Which is a big reason why I only bought one block!:eek: If you know of somewhere online that sells soaps cheaper, please let me know. I can tell this could be a hobby/craft that I get hooked on. (as if scrapbooking isn't expernsive/time comsuming enough :p)

BB
Chris

MystyPines
August 15th, 2001, 11:29 AM
Hi Chryssi!

With regard to purchasing soap supplies, my first time around I did the same thing and purchased from Michaels, at $10.00 for a 2 lb slab which I found to be of bad quality and left an awful smell after microwaving it. The Rag Shop in Connecticut does not sell soap supplies unfortunately. A.C. Moore in Connecticut does have the 2 lb melt & pour slabs, but they are also $10.00 a slab. So I started my search on the internet 3 weeks ago and decided to purchase from a soap supplier. The first batch of soap I made costed me $35.00 just in soap base to make, does not include fragrance or additives. Ugh! I have found Bittercreek Soap to be the least expensive after researching 28 soap companies: White melt and pour is $2.09 per lb. It is better to order in bulk to get it as cheap as possible. The soap companies have created more varieties of Melt and Pour which have Goat's Milk, Cocoa Butter, Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, Aloe Vera. I have been using the Goat's Milk because it is great for the skin and the lather is wonderful. I ordered 40 lbs for $98.40 ($2.46 per lb). As far as soap molds, I ordered a large wooden soap mold from E-Bay that makes long loaves, 18 bars that are 1 inch thick and bars are 4 oz. in weight and costed $20.00 for the mold. The mold holds 6 lbs in soap base. Additives, such as Cocoa butter, palm oil, coconut oil, shea butter can also be found on E-bay. They have a great soap and candle supplies on E-bay. Hope this helps.

Lavender
August 15th, 2001, 01:14 PM
Sunday's Child, tragacanth gum is a gummy substance that used in the cosmetic industry as an emulsifier. It's used to thicken things like shampoos, hair spray, lotions. Trag gum & acacia gum are interchangable. You can use them to make incense cones as well.

Lavender
August 15th, 2001, 01:20 PM
Hi Chris, I agree with MystyPines about the small batches. When you're working with small amount, your batch will lose heat much quicker.

The combinations you did sounds great! Bet they smell wonderful! :)

Faery-Wings
August 16th, 2001, 07:27 AM
Mysty, I am going to look at the site you mentioned, is that bittercreeksoap.com? I'll try a search for it. There's no way I can afford that much at once, so hopefully they will sell smaller amounts, but still cheaper than the craft stores. And I never thought of ebay. I am going over there next. :)

Wildchild, the bars smell really good. My son was sniffing them and he picks up the one lavender bar and says" This smells just like my Nightmare Spray." He gets a lot of nightmares and I put a drop of Lavender EO in a spray bottle with water. He shakes it up, puts a small squirt on his pillow and it helps him relax before he falls asleep. I couldn't believe he recognized the scent so well LOL!


I can't wait to get more stuff and try some more recipes. Oh and I bought some sea salt last nmight and am getting ready to make some bath salts! FUN!!!

Chris

MystyPines
August 16th, 2001, 09:52 AM
Chryssi!

I was on e-bay last night under the Hobbies/Crafts section and searched "soap." They are selling white or clear vegetable glycerin Melt & Pour for $9.99 for 4 lbs. I think that is half the price. Michael's sells theirs in 2 lb slabs for $10.00. There are a few auctions on this and no bids, so get in there! :) I just started with the Balt Salts also, thanks to Wild Child, I got a recipe from her. I brought the thread back up. Have fun!

Faery-Wings
August 16th, 2001, 08:15 PM
I went over to ebay. :crazy:

*hanging on to my spinning head*

I got scared and ran out, that place is a madhouse LOL!!!!

I have only looked around there once before and boy is it scary. There was so many listings under soapmaking. And I got confused (hey, it happens a lot to me *giggle*). I think I have to look over there in small doses.

Thanks for the suggestions. It could get scary for my cash flow if I figure out how to place a bet, err I mean bid :p

Chris

MystyPines
August 18th, 2001, 06:52 PM
Woo hoo! I am starting another batch today of Goat's Milk soap. I am going to make a Cinnamon Orange Spice, using the goat's milk melt & pour base, adding cinnamon soap fragrance and orange soap fragrance, using ground orange peel for color and ground cinnamon also. I will let you know how it comes out.

:D

Faery-Wings
August 19th, 2001, 07:15 AM
Originally posted by MystyPines
Woo hoo! I am starting another batch today of Goat's Milk soap. I am going to make a Cinnamon Orange Spice, using the goat's milk melt & pour base, adding cinnamon soap fragrance and orange soap fragrance, using ground orange peel for color and ground cinnamon also. I will let you know how it comes out.

:D

Sounds delish! Very Autumn-y :)

Have fun.

Chris

MystyPines
August 23rd, 2001, 12:55 PM
I have a question regarding adding fragrance oil to soaps. I made a 6 lb. batch of soap, and added 6 ounces of fragrance oil, the scent is very light. Should I have added more? Is there a standard or percentage per lb. that should be added? Thanks!

Lavender
August 23rd, 2001, 01:45 PM
The amount of fragrance really depends on your preference & what the scent is and what it's made from. Is it an essential oil you're using or a fragrance oil...is it synthetic or natural? Some citrus scents will fade a lot quicker than some of the heavier floral scents. It makes a difference if it is a top or middle or base note. Also are you using anything as a fixative to hold the scent in longer? Things like personal preferences is really important too. Some people may find it overwhelming & others may say it's not enough. If you're blending your own scent, you can use some of the base notes as a fixative as well. I roughly follow the 3:2:1 for blending...3 top notes: 2 middle notes: 1 base note. This isn't written in stone either. It's just a rough guide to play around with. Also, orris root powder is good in soaps as a fixative as well. Try using 1 tsp per 2 pounds of soap. Take out a small cup's worth of of soap mixture & mix in your orris root powder until there's no lumps. Add in your scents. Mix it all back into your main batch & take a whiff. The amount you used doesn't sound like it's too little for that size batch.

MystyPines
August 23rd, 2001, 03:06 PM
Thank you WildChild!

I made cinnamon orange soap with 6 lbs of white melt & pour vegetable glycerin base and added:

4 oz. of whole goat's milk
6 tablespoons of Palm Oil
6 tablespoons of Coconut Oil
2 oz. shea butter
12 Vitamin E caplets
2 oz. of Cinnamon fragrance oil
4 oz. of Orange Spice fragrance oil
1/4 cup of ground orange peel
2 oz. of ground cinnamon

The scent smells very light, I was hoping for stronger. I will keep trying, I guess it is trial and error. Thanks again!

Lavender
June 12th, 2002, 06:29 PM
*bump* for Seawitch :)

seawitch
June 12th, 2002, 06:33 PM
thanks wildchild! this is so great

Yvonne Belisle
June 12th, 2002, 08:11 PM
DOH!!!!! I forgot about this thread sorry Seawitch.

seawitch
June 12th, 2002, 08:55 PM
oh that's fine. i did a search but this thread didn't show. because it only goes back so far unless you change it to from the beginning.
still trying to figure out this puter stuff

Ravensnest
June 13th, 2002, 11:31 AM
I've been reading this thread.. okay all the way to page 5 and then my eyes started to cross! lol Anyway.. here are a few tips, and information I have come across since I began making soap.

1. with M&P soap bases, even these are "lye" soap and they have been made for optimum lather and cleaning. The more extra oils and additives you put in them the less lather you will have and the rancidity level goes up as well. These soaps are only good for so long before the herbs and added oils begin to decompose and go rancid. And here's the scary part.. you can't always tell when an oil has gone rancid. Quite often they look and smell exactly the same as when you got them. They all however have a "shelf life" and they all go bad after a certain time in soap. You can use just about any type of mold you wish with this soap. I've been reading concerns about it sticking.. just put your mold soap and all in the freezer and then pop it in a warm bath just to the top of the mold for a few seconds. When you take it out (dry the mold bottom first) the soap will pop right out. I have a huge aluminum loaf mold I use with my M&P and have never had a problem getting it out. And if you're doing CP soap just line your mold with either freezer paper or my favorite method.. a garbage bag! It will come right out of the mold.

2. If you decide to make CP or my favorite CPOP soap using the lye make sure you either follow a recipe EXACTLY do not go getting fancy and changing oils or anything until you know what you're doing. Each oil has it's own saponification rate and the lye is calculated to be what it will take to saponify each oil in your recipe. If you decide to substitute an oil without recalculating the lye you could have a real problem. Like a soap that is way to alkaline (would be fine as laundry soap but, not safe for skin use), a soap that never gets hard because too many oils didn't saponify (again can't use it). Here's a link to a lye calculator online. If you decide to switch out anything in a recipe ALWAYS go to the calculator and refigure your numbers to make sure your lye and water are correct. I saw on another pagan list that someone was discounting their water by 50% so they wouldn't have to wait so long for it to cure.. this isn't safe. The lye and water have to work together for the saponification to happen properly. If you discount your water too much you will not get a proper saponification regardless of the fact that the bar gets hard. It's still not going to have the proper ph levels and won't be safe to use. I'd say don't discount your water more than 25% at most.
http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php There are several lye calculators on the internet. You can figure the lye yourself but, hey.. I don't want to be a mathmetician just a soapmaker! :D

Making soap is incredibly fun and once you really learn what your doing you can start making soap for specific purposes. I suggest starting out with a very basic soap recipe and then learning all you can on the different oil properties so that you can come up with other recipes.

3. As to colorants.. colorants designed for M&P do not work well for CP. For one thing with CP you're working with raw soap.. the lye reacts with everything you put in your soap and will affect your colors. Soapmakers are always complaining they can't get that elusive red, or blue in their soaps. Even if you buy red or blue colorants the lye reacts with them and will change them. That doesn't happen with M&P because the soap isn't raw. Even CP soap in a rebatch won't be a problem because the lye has already done it's thing.
Colorants to avoid always: food coloring (it stains everything.. it will stain your skin too, crayons, candle dyes, dyes or colorants not designed to be used in the process you are doing.
Good colorants especially for those wanting to do "natural" colors:
Spices are wonderful! Cinnamon, Tumeric, Annato seed, Flax seed, etc. All of these things can be ground up and used as natural colorants particularly for cp soaps.

Supplies you'll need to invest in:
wisk
rubbermaid spatula
stainless steel pot
large pyrex measuring cup (the giant one I think it's like 64oz or something)
stick blender (a wonderful thing to save your arms with!)
good scale
colorants (if you desire)
fragrance/essential oils if you desire
base oils you should never be without:
olive, coconut oil, palm oil ( a less expensive substitute for olive would be canola but, you don't get all of the same skin conditioning qualities. I'd suggest cutting them half and half at most but, you can use all canola)
You can use pomace olive oil but, you can also use the olive oil straight off your grocery store shelf. It will just take longer to cure if doing straight CP soap where as pomace begins setting up quickly.

For the question about the M&P "sweating" M&P must be wrapped to keep out of the air. It doesn't need "cure time" you umold and wrap (use saran wrap) to keep the air off of it. If temperatures or humidity levels are too high it will still have a chance at sweating.

Here's a good basic 2lb recipe
8oz coconut oil
16oz olive oil
8oz palm oil
4.39oz lye
12oz water (I do CPOP soap so I discount the water 25% to get 9oz for my soap I'll explain CPOP and if you want to do it you can use 9oz instead of 12)

Melt your oils and then set them aside to cool. Put your water in glass container and slowly pour your lye into the water (never pour your water into the lye.. it can become a very dagerous volcano) and stir ( I use a wisk and it always blends beautifully) until the lye is disolved. The container will become very hot as the lye reacts with the water. The temperature will probably get to somewhere around 200* so be very careful. Eventually you will get to the point you can just feel your containers (oil and the lye/water) and know when it's time to mix them until then try to wait until they are around 80-90* to mix them. At that point slowly pour your lye water into your oils and stir briskly. I again, use a wisk. Once it starts to get thick enough that you don't feel like something might spill out of the top of your container you can use the stick blender. Keep it on low to keep your air bubbles down. Blend it until you get a light trace (when you take your blender, wisk or whatever you're stirring with out of the mix and it leaves a light "trail" you have gotten to light trace) put your coloring, additives, fragrance in and then mix those in to full trace (becomes the consistency of thick pudding) then pour into your lined mold and for cp soap cover it with saran wrap over the top then wrap in towels or a blanket something to keep it insulated. The saponification process doesn't stop when you quit stirring. It continues for the next 24-48 hours while the soap is setting up in order to do this it must have the heat. For cpop soap you would put the saran wrap over the top and then pop it into the oven on the lowest temp (150-200*) for the next hour to hour and a half. Then you would turn the oven off and let it sit there for the next 24 hours. With either soap after about 24 hours you should be able to remove the soap from the mold and cut the bars. With cpop soap you don't have the lengthy cure time you have with plain cp soap. You can use your bars anywhere from immediately to a week or so. With cp soap you cut the bars and then set them where they can get air for 6-8 weeks to cure (sometimes you can get away with 3-5 weeks) me, I'm not that patient! lol

Hope all this helps and it wasn't too much at one time! Later we'll get into swirling, marbeling etc! Right now just start with the basics!

Ravensnest
June 13th, 2002, 11:50 AM
I'm so happy I could cry! I just wrote that huge post and while it was "sending" it I got bumped! I was terrified it wouldn't be there and I knew I wasn't going to rewrite it! lol I got back on and was so relieved to see it made it! Here's one of my latest bars, just made it two days ago. I got some emu oil to try out for the healing properties. It is a WONDERFUL bar of soap. Made with emu oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, olive oil, and palm oil. It feels amazing on your skin. I'm hoping it will help my autistic brother who is seriously OCD and washes his hands to the point they break and bleed. I scented it with patchouli ( I did a bar for him in lemongrass and sage)
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Ravensnest
June 13th, 2002, 12:16 PM
More pictures of things you can do.. this time getting a little fancy with M&P... this is scented with Dragonpatchouli and made to look like tye dye. Goldfish in a bag pic coming next!

Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Ravensnest
June 13th, 2002, 12:20 PM
Goldfish in a bag soaps. These are done with clear M&P soap poured into bags with little plastic goldfish in them. Very cute for kids!
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Lavender
June 13th, 2002, 12:53 PM
Heh! We can take all the threads here & write a book on Mysticwicks soapmaking! :p We've gone from cold process to melt & pour to semi boiled. :)

I'm going to be making liquid soap from scratch this weekend with potassium hydroxide. Haven't decided whether to make shampoo or just plain liquid soap.

Ravensnest
June 13th, 2002, 01:00 PM
Originally posted by Wildchild
Heh! We can take all the threads here & write a book on Mysticwicks soapmaking! :p We've gone from cold process to melt & pour to semi boiled. :)

I'm going to be making liquid soap from scratch this weekend with potassium hydroxide. Haven't decided whether to make shampoo or just plain liquid soap.

:D That would be a cool book! This is really such an addictive hobby/business. I have fallen in love with soapmaking (cpop). I just made 4 batches over the last two days:
Triple butter recipe I created with shea/mango & cocoa butters
1 batch of that scented with my shaman smudge and one batch scented with sandalwood.

Emu bar using emu oil one batch scented with lemongrass and sage and one with patchouli.

Theyre all sitting around waiting for me to label them! The house is really scented! :D Got several more batches planned for today and tomorrow!
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Lavender
June 14th, 2002, 01:21 PM
Heh! Yeah! Whenever I teach a class, I always warn people that the caution for the class is that it's addictive. Ravensnest, have you tried making liquid soap? Some soapmaking friends of mine are getting together this weekend to give it try. One of the women had taken classes with Catherine Failor.

seawitch
June 14th, 2002, 07:13 PM
o.k. i am just about set to go have the fat rendered and cleaned just need to weigh it. have the lye, and the essential oils. i am using quart milk boxes for molds.
i may even get at it tonight. i can understand about addiction to it i am already pretty amped about it:p

wildchild what is that jello like stuff on the bottem of the pan after the fat cools from rendering?

Ravensnest
June 15th, 2002, 01:53 AM
Just did a triple moon soap.. it's a glycerin. I got the mold to do in cp but, couldn't stand it had to see how it would work NOW! lol I colored it a dark royal type blue with fine blue glitter, scented it with jasmine and sandalwood for moon rituals and used soapmaking colorant to paint the triple moon silver. I'm calling it "Blue Moon" and will be adding it to the ritual lineup! I'm so happy with how it turned out!
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Lavender
June 15th, 2002, 02:11 PM
Originally posted by seawitch
o.k. i am just about set to go have the fat rendered and cleaned just need to weigh it. have the lye, and the essential oils. i am using quart milk boxes for molds.
i may even get at it tonight. i can understand about addiction to it i am already pretty amped about it:p

wildchild what is that jello like stuff on the bottem of the pan after the fat cools from rendering?

That gelatin stuff is the icky stuff like cartilage & misc meat stuff that you don't want to know about. Scrape that off & throw it out.

I'm looking forward to hearing how your soap turns out. Don't forget to keep the box well insulated. Milk carton boxes are the best thing, aren't they? :p

I don't know if you've already calculated the lye for your soap yet, but in case you need it, the SAP for beef tallow is 197. If you need help working out the lye, let me know.

seawitch
June 15th, 2002, 03:02 PM
i am so excited! it took hours to trace but all of a sudden it just did. and this morning it cut it into bars and it looks and smells wonderful. can't wait to make more.
next time i will make bergamot and orange.
i used the lye calculator at the cranberry site and the troubleshooting guide was helpful when i thought it wasn't going to trace.
it was the most fun thing i have ever done.(well one of them) and my husband is convinced i am a genius lol
and i plan on making it from different oils after i do research on buying then inexpensively.
thanks sooooo much for all the help and great ideas!

Ravensnest
June 15th, 2002, 03:24 PM
It really is one of the most fun things you'll do.. and now you will be hooked.. like a drug you can't shake.. you'll NEED to make soap:D And once you start researching the different properties of oils and can begin to make soaps for specific needs.. oh man, there will be no stopping you!! And yes, everyone will think you're a genius!

Have lots of fun and by all means if you need any help just ask!
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

seawitch
June 15th, 2002, 03:32 PM
oh yes ravensnest i am hooked! and you have such beautiful soaps. i was thinking WOW!
i had a neat idea do you remember those candles that had little charms and trinkets in them, like crystals and beads? i could do the same with soap huh? maybe i couldn't use metals but rocks and shells and things would be great.
or did you already think that one up? you crafty girls!:)

Ravensnest
June 15th, 2002, 03:40 PM
That's a really popular thing to do with the glycerin soaps.. lots of embeds. Like the goldfish in a bag soaps I did. Those are very popular. I haven't seen anyone do them with the cp soaps though. Who knows.. a "king soap" like king cakes at mardi gras! lol have fun!
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Lavender
June 15th, 2002, 06:15 PM
Congrats, Seawitch!!!! This is just the beginning, you know! :D

And yes, you can imbed stuff in cold process soaps but you have to be careful what you use. If I do, I usually do a rebatch or handmilling. This is when you grate down your cp soap and add a bit of water & melt it down and re-mould it. At that time, the soap is stable and you can put fun stuff in there.

One thing I love doing is making a thin green slab of soap. I cut these with a tree shaped cookie cutter and place them in the bottom of another pan. Then I make a white (or any other colour) batch of soap & pour that over. When everything sets, I cut them into bars & they have a christmas tree inside. :)

My liquid soap is bubbling away nicely right now. It's at the translucent stage. :) So far so good.

Ravensnest
June 15th, 2002, 10:33 PM
Ahhhhh the joys of soapmaking.. I'm really gonna have to try the liquid soap! I just did 3 batches of soap tonight. They're all wrapped up staying nice and warm! I did a batch of lemongrass & sage, an oatmeal milk & honey with goats milk and a batch of shampoo bars with dragons blood. I swirled the lemongrass & sage with a sage green, let the omh stay natural.. the goatsmilk and oatmeal will naturally turn it a brownish color and I swirled the dragons blood with amythest. Can't wait til tomorrow to cut them up and give em a try!

This really is such a fun thing to do Seawitch! Really, get you some books and read read read.. learn about the oils and start playing! I did one batch tonight with emu, castor, coconut, mango, olive, palm, and safflower oils. The second batch with canola, castor, cocoa butter, coconut, mango butter, olive, palm and shea butter. And the shampoo bar with castor, coconut and olive. Oh, but the waiting!! even for 24 hours .. I can't stand it!:p

Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com

Lavender
June 16th, 2002, 01:49 AM
heh! The waiting is the worse part of soap making! :lol:

I've peeked at my liquid soap 6 times in the last hour. Everything went well and it's sitting on the shelf looking....well...liquid.

seawitch
June 17th, 2002, 12:22 AM
boy, i'll say the waiting is the worst part.

could a person use a strong herb tea in place of the water? or would the lye destroy it? i am just wondering i really love labrador tea and would like to have soap that smells like it.
or should i just add the whole herb i don't believe an essential oil is made but maybe.
had another question but forgot it by the time i got here. i hate that

Lavender
June 17th, 2002, 12:29 AM
The lye seems to turn any herbal tea water brown. Sometimes, the scent would linger but it would be quite faint. It's always worth a try...experiment is half the fun! :D As for the medicinal value, I'm of the thought that the caustic nature & high temperatures would destroy any medicinal values from using such a tea.

Another thing you can try is to infuse the oils with the herbs. The scent is still not very strong either.

Old Witch
June 17th, 2002, 07:40 PM
:lol: If I start making soap, Ken will kill me.............I will not make soap........repeat..... repeat...... repeat..........

Ravensnest
June 17th, 2002, 08:34 PM
Only until he uses the soap! :p

Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
tea tree essential oil $13.95/16oz patchouli $25/16oz
http://ravensnestincense.com (sales/co-ops page)

Enchanted Owl
http://enchanted-owl.com

Old Witch
June 18th, 2002, 09:39 AM
I know he would love the soaps, He'd flip because he says I never rest .........always gotta do something..........

seawitch
June 18th, 2002, 09:47 AM
my husband says that to and i was wondering to myself if it is a bad thing i suppose it could be. but it's fun i'll just hang out today after work and do house things. instead of running off to the woods as usual(sp?) there's always tomorrow. and my house work always suffers in the summer:)

Lavender
June 20th, 2002, 12:50 PM
It turned out beautifully! I'm so pleased with it. Much easier than making the CP first and then grating down the bars. I love it & am going to try gel soap this weekend. :)

Ravensnest
June 20th, 2002, 01:07 PM
COOOL! I made my first shampoo bar this past week and it worked great! Scented it with Dragons Blood.. beautiful!! I'm now working on a pagan website... keeping me busy so I haven't made any soap this week but, I neeeeeeeddddd to! lol
Dottie
Ravens Nest Incense & Oils
http://ravensnestincense.com
Enchanted Owl
http://enchanted-owl.com

seawitch
June 23rd, 2002, 02:01 PM
i made cedarwood scented soap with brown swirls. it looks cool and smells great. my soap is pretty heavely scented. so probably not good for people with sensitive skin huh? my honey says i have hide anyway not skin. but it is something to consider when making soap for gifts.
i am preparing to make another batch in a couple days with lilac oil .
i used a crayon to make the swirls is that ok? it looks good and mixed just fine.
also i was wondering if any of you knew where i could get personalised craft labels, for my soaps and incenses and things with a pagan theme?
you have all been so helpful thanks very much :)

Ravensnest
June 23rd, 2002, 03:17 PM
You really shouldn't use crayons for coloring your soap especially if you intend on selling them. You'll need to find cosmetic coloring that is skin safe. As to labels, I make my own. I do "cigar" bands for my soap and I make hang tags for my incense bags. I'll take pictures and show you. Before I did the hang tags for the incense I just bought shipping labels and printed my design and info on those and then stuck them to the bags. Here's a picture of a basket of soaps with the cigar band labels I make.

Lavender
June 23rd, 2002, 05:01 PM
I agree with Ravensnest about the crayon. You can use grounded herbs and spices to colour your soaps. You can use tumeric for a nice yellow/orange, coffee for brown, alfalfa powder and green clay for green, pink clay for pink.

Take a small amout of your soap after it's reached trace, mix in your colourants and fragrances. Mix this back into your main batch. It's like making gravy. This will help you check easily that all the lumps are mixed in and broken up.

seawitch
June 23rd, 2002, 11:58 PM
ahhh very good. the coloring with plants. and the band ideas i made my own labels well wrote the information down and made by me. but my penmanship is not great , and i wanted to give them as gifts. so they would look pretty.
if i ever figure out my printer i can do those to i think:o and maybe sticky labels also.

Nissala
July 3rd, 2002, 08:26 AM
I made some M&P soap last weekend (my computer had been down, so could not get here earlier to ask this question :-(
How long does it have to cure?

Ravensnest
July 3rd, 2002, 10:02 AM
M&P doesn't have a cure time.. it's ready as soon as you unmold it unless of course you made your own from scratch (meaning you made transparent soap using oils and lye) then you would have a cure time but, if you're just talking blocks you cut up and melt then pour into molds.. you can use them as soon as they come out of the mold.

Nissala
July 5th, 2002, 10:49 AM
thank you Ravensnest! I tried the simple form this time just to see if I could do it at all....I am going to try the "scratch" version next....(I hope I don't blow anything up!) :D

Ravensnest
July 5th, 2002, 11:45 AM
Originally posted by Nissala
thank you Ravensnest! I tried the simple form this time just to see if I could do it at all....I am going to try the "scratch" version next....(I hope I don't blow anything up!) :D


LOL I'm thinking of giving it a shot too. I already do my own CPOP soap but, I'm thinking of making my own M&P base. It's not supposed to be very cost effective to make your own for large quantities but, I think it would be nice to at least do a "luxury" recipe that would be a special bar maybe. We'll see.. I'm a bit more nervous of starting a fire than I was of playing with lye:p

Lavender
July 5th, 2002, 12:13 PM
Are you thinking of doing a M&P base for transparent soap? I find it hard to keep the base staying transparent. It's not very stable to be melted & remelted. The opaque base is much more stable. I love rebatching my soaps. It's a better bar because you can add all your bells & whistles 7 not have to worry about the high heat destroying the added goodness.

Ravensnest
July 5th, 2002, 12:20 PM
I was thinking of actually trying to make a transparent soap. Just like you'd get with M&P base but, one I make from scratch using certain oils I'm just concerned about the alcohol.

I'm looking at something simple to start:
glycerin
sugar
ethanol
coconut oil
palm oil
castor oil
lye
water

But, we'll see:p I've gotta quit worrying about that flashpoint of the everclear! lol

Lavender
July 5th, 2002, 01:23 PM
If you take precautions, the alcohol is not that difficult to work with. For me, it's just that with all the additives (alcohol, sugar, glycerin, etc) you need to make the soap transparent also makes the soap unstable as a M&P. I find transparent soap doesn't rebatch well. To be honest, I find the quality of transparent soaps are not as good as regular CP/HP soaps. It's all the extra alcohol & such. It's a novelty thing. The original bars will turn out beautifully but it wasn't worth the effort to rebatch. It will lose it's tranparency.

Have you seen Catherine Failor's Transparent Soap book?

Ravensnest
July 5th, 2002, 01:28 PM
Originally posted by Wildchild

Have you seen Catherine Failor's Transparent Soap book?

I've seen it but, not actually sat down and looked at it yet. I really need to. She's supposed to be one of the best at it! I know it's not really cost effective to make my own transparent soap when there's M&P out there for so cheap! But... you know how soapmakers are lol Gotta try it at least once! ;)

Lavender
July 5th, 2002, 02:42 PM
heh! Yeah, I know what you mean...if it's there, you gotta try it.

Catherine's book is really great. Her methods are excellent but I was very leery of her recipes. Her liquid soap book is very good too but again, the recipes are a bit odd for my taste. "Soft oil of choice" doesn't work for me. I like my lye to be a bit more precise than that. :lol:

I'm not a big fan of M&P base soaps. It bothers me that a lot of soapmakers tote it as a natural soap. Not with all the chemicals in there to keep it stable.

Ravensnest
July 5th, 2002, 02:49 PM
Originally posted by Wildchild
I'm not a big fan of M&P base soaps. It bothers me that a lot of soapmakers tote it as a natural soap. Not with all the chemicals in there to keep it stable.

I know what you mean.. on a soapmaking list I belong to we just had a big debate over that very topic and decided you could call M&P soaps "handcrafted" but, not "handmade" lol

I generally only do M&P soaps for those soaps that are going to primarily be used to sit and look pretty in the bathroom. And I won't use anything for me personally anymore but, my CP soaps love them! I'm about to try a recipe that is primarily shea butter... it's gonna be one pricey little soap to make but, I'll bet it feels great!

Yvonne Belisle
August 15th, 2002, 03:15 PM
Here is a recipe to keep away the bugs

CITRONELLA SOAP

1 cup grated Castile soap
1/2 cup water
10 drops citronella essential oil
5 drops eucalyptus essential oil
1 tbs. dried, crushed pennyroyal leaves

Mix the ingredients into the melted soap/water mixture. With an electric
mixer, whip the soap until it has doubled in volume. Spoon the soap into the
prepared molds, pushing it into the molds as best you can (the beating
action cools the mix, so work quickly). If the mixture has cooled off and
thickened so much you can't put it into the molds, hand mold the soap into
large balls.

Old Witch
March 8th, 2003, 04:23 PM
Bump for FelixFire.................:D

Lavender
March 8th, 2003, 07:32 PM
I had forgotten about this thread! :)

FelixFire
March 12th, 2003, 06:16 PM
I would have missed this thread completely if you hadn't bumped it up for me. :) Thank you!!!

My acne bars turned out really good!! (mentioned those at the end of the other thread, there) I infused the olive oil with calendula, lavender and rosemary. I used plenty of coconut and palm oils this time (lol), and used EO's of tea tree, eucalyptus, lemongrass and lavender for scenting (and for the EO's properties on the skin, of course). To color it I tossed a couple tablespoons of sea clay in and blended it into one side of the pot and let it swirl itself as it poured...I am just SO PROUD of how they turned out, LOL!!

My friends have begun begging me to make soap for them now, heh, heh. I just ordered a sample pack of oxides for more colors, and am digging around to find out who has the best FO's. I love using EO's, but I can only afford so many, LOL.

Here's a scan of my acne soap...my hubby just loves how it looks and smells, now HE is all excited about my soap too, LOL.

FelixFire
March 12th, 2003, 06:17 PM
Where'd my attachment go? Lemme try that again...