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Flar's Freyja
February 26th, 2004, 08:57 PM
I'm new to soap making and there is very little available to me locally. Hobby Lobby and Michael's only carry one brand of melt and pour and fragrances. The melt and pour is much bettter quality than I expected but is higher priced than anything I've found online, even at the high end. The fragrances they sell are worthless; very faint and nothing special.

Here are two sites that I've ordered from and have been pleased with the quality as well:

Sweet Cakes (http://www.sweetcakes.com)

Prices on melt and pour bases are high - $7.00 for a 2 lb. block. Fragrances average $8.00 for a 2 oz. bottle. The site has a lot of good ideas for fragrance blending. The negative side is that they have a $25 minimum. Most of their 2 oz bottles are $8, and three would come to $24, one dollar short. I've asked them if they could be flexible when it's that close and they can not, so I'm not sure I'll continue to use them even if they do have the most wonderful Sandalwood Vanilla I've found :(

Nature's Garden Candles (http://www.naturesgardencandles.com)

$3.95 for a 2 lb. block of melt and pour and a good variety, from goat's milk to amber honey. Fragrances average $6.99 for a 4 oz. botttle. Their Feng Shui fragrances are currently on sale for $1.00 per ounce. I received mine today and they smell awesome. I don't know how well they'll perform in the soap just yet. I put a drop on my hand 3 hours ago and I can still smell it. They also have free soap and candle making lessons on their site.

I found the best prices on molds here:

Bramble Berry (http://www.brambleberry.com)

Melt and pour bases range from $2.50 to $3.25 for 1 lb. of M&P and $5.74 for 2 lbs. They also have rebatching bases as well as equipment.

Flar's Freyja
February 28th, 2004, 02:04 AM
I just found this awesome site, not just for the essential oils they sell but for the wealth of information on combining them and their properties - very good for anyone who wants to make soaps, aroma sprays, bath salts or anything else with therapeutic value!

AromaWeb (http://www.aromaweb.com/default.asp)

fireswimmer
February 28th, 2004, 02:08 AM
I just found this awesome site, not just for the essential oils they sell but for the wealth of information on combining them and their properties - very good for anyone who wants to make soaps, aroma sprays, bath salts or anything else with therapeutic value!

AromaWeb (http://www.aromaweb.com/default.asp)


You may also want to try majestic mountain sage. I can never quite remember the address. It comes up with a google search.

Fireswimmer :colorful:

Flar's Freyja
February 28th, 2004, 02:13 AM
You may also want to try majestic mountain sage. I can never quite remember the address. It comes up with a google search.

Fireswimmer :colorful:

http://www.the-sage.com/

:D

Calyx
February 28th, 2004, 11:41 PM
Freyja,

If you are looking for M&P base, which is what I use, I highly recommend the Soap Goat and Camden Grey. I have ordered from both of them and really like their products. I have a couple of others that I haven't ordered from yet but have them bookmarked. One has an extra hard (like hand milled) opaque base that I am really interested in. Let me go search and I will post it on here! :)

Flar's Freyja
February 29th, 2004, 02:00 AM
Freyja,

If you are looking for M&P base, which is what I use, I highly recommend the Soap Goat and Camden Grey. I have ordered from both of them and really like their products. I have a couple of others that I haven't ordered from yet but have them bookmarked. One has an extra hard (like hand milled) opaque base that I am really interested in. Let me go search and I will post it on here! :)

Thank you! Ravensnest has also mentioned Soap Goat. Her site is down right now but I found her on e-bay. There is only one kind available to me locally and it's not bad, but I'm looking for the best quality at the best price. Michael's and Hobby Lobby carry "Life of the Party" brand. It is expensive, $8.99 for a 2 lb block. Michael's has 40% off coupons every few weeks and I got some of their aloe & cucumber but haven't tried it yet.

I also found another supplier on e-bay but I lost the bid. I'm not going to bid again until it's ready to close to see if I can still win. It's for some castile melt and pour base. Their buy it now price is $4.75 but after shipping it's as much as the local stuff.

I got the shea butter M&P base from Sweetcakes and I don't like it as well as I'd hoped at all. And it was expensive, $7.00 for 2 lbs.

Calyx
February 29th, 2004, 02:17 AM
Thank you! Ravensnest has also mentioned Soap Goat. Her site is down right now but I found her on e-bay. There is only one kind available to me locally and it's not bad, but I'm looking for the best quality at the best price. Michael's and Hobby Lobby carry "Life of the Party" brand. It is expensive, $8.99 for a 2 lb block. Michael's has 40% off coupons every few weeks and I got some of their aloe & cucumber but haven't tried it yet.

I also found another supplier on e-bay but I lost the bid. I'm not going to bid again until it's ready to close to see if I can still win. It's for some castile melt and pour base. Their buy it now price is $4.75 but after shipping it's as much as the local stuff.

I got the shea butter M&P base from Sweetcakes and I don't like it as well as I'd hoped at all. And it was expensive, $7.00 for 2 lbs.

Yeah, I use that type myself, and it IS expensive. When I really get into it, I buy the 20 lb bulk bases and just slice hunks off. I need a digital scale because of this, so I am saving to get one. I bought some shea butter from the Soap Goat and add tiny bits into my soap (opaque only) when I make it. I've not tried it in an actual base before, but now I am a little wary based on your review!

still gotta go find that website--I keep getting sidetracked here... :)

Flar's Freyja
February 29th, 2004, 02:32 AM
Yeah, I use that type myself, and it IS expensive. When I really get into it, I buy the 20 lb bulk bases and just slice hunks off. I need a digital scale because of this, so I am saving to get one. I bought some shea butter from the Soap Goat and add tiny bits into my soap (opaque only) when I make it. I've not tried it in an actual base before, but now I am a little wary based on your review!

still gotta go find that website--I keep getting sidetracked here... :)

So you can add shea butter......I'll try that. And thanks for the recommendation for Soap Goat's. I found a recipe for body butter that calls for shea butter so I'll try to get some from them!

I went to a local shop to get some vanilla fragrance oil tonight, and she had a quart bottle of liquid castile soap marked down to $3.00! I'm going to make my baby some rosemary shampoo and some shower gel for myself. The brand is Dr. Bronner's and the label is hilarious, with Christian Jesus freak stuff all over it......but the instructions are funniest. I can't find the site that had them now, but it says stuff like:

Dilute the soap! Don't drink the soap! OK!

http://drbronner.com/story.html

Calyx
February 29th, 2004, 02:44 AM
OK, here are some of my bookmarked site for soap base. I have not used any of these yet, but I got them through reviews from other soapers who have used their products and were pleased with them.....


http://www.cedarvale.net/bulk/bulk_lotion.htm

http://www.hollyhobby.com/store.asp?catid=5

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/Default.aspx

http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html

and here is the one for the extra hard base....

http://www.wisterialane.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=200

Hope this gives you some ideas. If you order from any of them, would you let me know?? :)

Calyx
February 29th, 2004, 02:54 AM
So you can add shea butter......I'll try that. And thanks for the recommendation for Soap Goat's. I found a recipe for body butter that calls for shea butter so I'll try to get some from them!

I went to a local shop to get some vanilla fragrance oil tonight, and she had a quart bottle of liquid castile soap marked down to $3.00! I'm going to make my baby some rosemary shampoo and some shower gel for myself. The brand is Dr. Bronner's and the label is hilarious, with Christian Jesus freak stuff all over it......but the instructions are funniest. I can't find the site that had them now, but it says stuff like:

Dilute the soap! Don't drink the soap! OK!

http://drbronner.com/story.html

OMG--I have seen his stuff everywhere down here and never read those labels. How funny!

On the shea butter--a little goes a looong way! If you use too much, then it will rise to the top of the soap and look a little scary. Also, it will make your soaps softer and you might have to pop them into the freezer to get them out of your molds. I have one sitting by me right now that is a honey, shea butter and calendula soap, which I made at Yule but kept for myself. It's actually soft enough that I can press on it and make indentions, which is probably from both the honey and the shea butter. But it smells fabulous and I want to experiment again using a little less of both to make the soap harder. Or perhaps I should just cave and buy the extra hard soap base and try that one.....

And, if you have a good recipe for body butter, I would love it if you want to share. I just tried making some a couple of weeks ago, and it turned out more like a paste than a body butter. I think I didn't whip it enough. Mine had beeswax in it too. It's a little grainy when you scoop it out, but it melts in your hands. And it's a frankensence and rose fragrance, which turned out wonderfully. Even the DH has been using it! But I would like to make it a little creamier, and not so *pasty* next time.

any tips? :)

Flar's Freyja
February 29th, 2004, 05:27 AM
OMG--I have seen his stuff everywhere down here and never read those labels. How funny!

On the shea butter--a little goes a looong way! If you use too much, then it will rise to the top of the soap and look a little scary. Also, it will make your soaps softer and you might have to pop them into the freezer to get them out of your molds. I have one sitting by me right now that is a honey, shea butter and calendula soap, which I made at Yule but kept for myself. It's actually soft enough that I can press on it and make indentions, which is probably from both the honey and the shea butter. But it smells fabulous and I want to experiment again using a little less of both to make the soap harder. Or perhaps I should just cave and buy the extra hard soap base and try that one.....

And, if you have a good recipe for body butter, I would love it if you want to share. I just tried making some a couple of weeks ago, and it turned out more like a paste than a body butter. I think I didn't whip it enough. Mine had beeswax in it too. It's a little grainy when you scoop it out, but it melts in your hands. And it's a frankensence and rose fragrance, which turned out wonderfully. Even the DH has been using it! But I would like to make it a little creamier, and not so *pasty* next time.

any tips? :)

The shampoo turned out great, but Flar has to use it yet for the whole evaluation *crosses fingers.* I used rosemary and lavender as they are supposed to be good for psoriasis and dandruff, which he struggles with. The kind I bought is almond and I bet it would be great with an almond fragrance to boost it a a bit. I probably won't be able to try it myself as clear shampoos take the color out of my hair.

Oooh, frankincense and rose sounds wonderful! :T you're like me - I have a bar of the sandalwood vanilla I made next to my computer. I'm trying to figure out how to carry one in my purse. The smell is so comforting.

Well, I don't remember the site I saw the body butter recipe on :( but I do remember that it was 2 oz of shea butter and 2 oz of sweet almond oil whipped together. I can't wait to try it.

Ravensnest
February 29th, 2004, 01:36 PM
It's a little grainy when you scoop it out, but it melts in your hands. But I would like to make it a little creamier, and not so *pasty* next time.

any tips? :)


That grainy feeling is usually caused by getting the shea butter too hot when you melt it. I'll dig up my directions on how to fix that and will try to post them soon. You have to remelt the shea to a certain temp and then allow it to cool again and it takes the grainy away. I'll look and see what I can find when I get a chance.

Flar's Freyja
February 29th, 2004, 01:44 PM
That grainy feeling is usually caused by getting the shea butter too hot when you melt it. I'll dig up my directions on how to fix that and will try to post them soon. You have to remelt the shea to a certain temp and then allow it to cool again and it takes the grainy away. I'll look and see what I can find when I get a chance.

You are so smart! I'm so glad you posted that before I try it! I'd give you some karma but it won't let me :(

I had a duh moment - a good friend of mine also carries fragrance and essential oils on her site, and she makes some awesome products with very unique fragrances. She sent me some samples and her Sea Mist lotion and lavender face cream are to die for..... She's been at it for a few years and her site is amazing:

Wise Ways Apothecary (http://www.w2apoth.com)

terre
February 29th, 2004, 08:07 PM
im verry much would like no love to make my own soaps but am verry confused on what kind of oils to us how to add fragrances and what king are ok HELP please

Flar's Freyja
February 29th, 2004, 11:14 PM
im verry much would like no love to make my own soaps but am verry confused on what kind of oils to us how to add fragrances and what king are ok HELP please

:welcome:

I'm new to soap making as well - the sites that supply fragrance oils will tell you whether or not theirs are "body safe." There are some essential oils that you have to be careful with. The site I posted above may have some tips on that.

I do know that you do not want to use oils that specify that they are for candles only. From what I've seen so far, most fragrance oils have warnings right on their labels.

Deborah
March 1st, 2004, 01:46 AM
try this site......looks like they are having a closeout sale on MP base form SFIC

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com

fireswimmer
March 1st, 2004, 05:30 AM
Yeah, I use that type myself, and it IS expensive. When I really get into it, I buy the 20 lb bulk bases and just slice hunks off. I need a digital scale because of this, so I am saving to get one. I bought some shea butter from the Soap Goat and add tiny bits into my soap (opaque only) when I make it. I've not tried it in an actual base before, but now I am a little wary based on your review!

still gotta go find that website--I keep getting sidetracked here... :)


For my bath p[roducts I use a postal scale. It is digital and goes out to two place worth of decimals. It was somewhere around the 20 dollar mark. I have found ti well worth it. I am nto sure if that would work for you but it was reccomended on one of the soapers sites I have researched.

Fireswimmer

terre
March 1st, 2004, 08:53 AM
try this site......looks like they are having a closeout sale on MP base form SFIC

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com
thank you both ill check out that sight

terre
March 3rd, 2004, 09:52 AM
is it ok to make a basic while or pure soap now age it and milt it doun later and then add fragrance and colors?

Flar's Freyja
March 7th, 2004, 12:56 AM
is it ok to make a basic while or pure soap now age it and milt it doun later and then add fragrance and colors?

Yes. That is called rebatching. You can grate it and mix it with water or milk, add more oils or butters and fragrance. You have to let the bars cure for 3 weeks before you can use them, though.

I met this wonderful sweet lady on e-bay in my search for fragrances. I ordered some samples from her and while her fragrances were awesome, they weren't strong enough. I wrote to her about this and she is getting some that are 250% more concentrated for me! These are at a higher price, of course, but shipping is free.

She is wanting to know if there is a need for the stronger fragrances. I suggested that she make them available to those of us who like them. Another big plus is that you can always get samples before you blow money on a larger bottle that you end up not liking or being able to use. Check out her site:

Quality Fragrances4Less (http://www.qualityscents4less.com/)

Another good supplier is one of our own MW members:

Wise Ways Apothecary (http://www.w2apoth.com)

I just got a bottle of her Sandalwood and it passed the test - I put some on my hand and washed dishes and it was still there.

Flar's Freyja
March 7th, 2004, 01:07 AM
is it ok to make a basic while or pure soap now age it and milt it doun later and then add fragrance and colors?

I went to look up instructions for you and found this. It's much easier than the first method I tried and you only need to cure it for a week:

http://www.colebrothers.com/soap/rebatch.html

However, I have not yet tried it. The method I used is from Marie Browning's "Melt and Pour Soap Making." I had a lot of trouble getting the grated soap to melt and mix with the water so I don't recommend her method. I'm curing it anyway, since I wanted to see what it would do. It has another week to go.

DragonsChest
March 7th, 2004, 01:20 AM
So you can add shea butter......I'll try that. And thanks for the recommendation for Soap Goat's. I found a recipe for body butter that calls for shea butter so I'll try to get some from them!

I went to a local shop to get some vanilla fragrance oil tonight, and she had a quart bottle of liquid castile soap marked down to $3.00! I'm going to make my baby some rosemary shampoo and some shower gel for myself. The brand is Dr. Bronner's and the label is hilarious, with Christian Jesus freak stuff all over it......but the instructions are funniest. I can't find the site that had them now, but it says stuff like:

Dilute the soap! Don't drink the soap! OK!

http://drbronner.com/story.html


My boss uses Dr. Bronner's stuff and swears by it. I need to try it.

Flar's Freyja
March 10th, 2004, 12:58 AM
Still trying to thicken up that shampoo, lol - but we love the fragrance and I love the way it rinses out. That's a big deal with our lous water.

I found this site this evening. Seems like they have good prices on butters and oils:

http://www.olivetreesoaps.com/

terre
March 11th, 2004, 09:13 AM
undefinedthank you for the info i too found a verry sweet woman who make f/o oils and thay are just to die for its whole sale supplies and the prices are good pluss fast delivery :)
i do have another queston for you
if im making c/p soap and want to add herbs or flower petels do i need to add something like fruit fresh?
i was told that if i didnt the herds ans stuff mite rot?
:huddle:

Gala
March 11th, 2004, 12:15 PM
I found my book, it is called the complete soapmaker. If you want I can try to scan some pages... or.... I can take it to work and make copies and mail them to you??? Whatcha wan me to do?

Flar's Freyja
March 14th, 2004, 03:27 AM
undefinedthank you for the info i too found a verry sweet woman who make f/o oils and thay are just to die for its whole sale supplies and the prices are good pluss fast delivery :)
i do have another queston for you
if im making c/p soap and want to add herbs or flower petels do i need to add something like fruit fresh?
i was told that if i didnt the herds ans stuff mite rot?
:huddle:

Since I'm new too, and this was intended to be for supplies (we all got off topic, lol), I'd post your question in the First Time Soaper thread or start a new one :)

There is a lady here who make soaps and gets her supplies from To Die For - and her soaps are divine. They've been recommended to me by someone else, too.

Gala, that would be great if you have time!

~*Ginger*~
March 14th, 2004, 04:39 AM
online soap formulator (http://www.soozcorner.com/formulator/soapformulator.htm)
...if anyone might find this helpful...

Calyx
March 14th, 2004, 11:53 PM
There is a lady here who make soaps and gets her supplies from To Die For - and her soaps are divine. They've been recommended to me by someone else, too.



Freyja, do you have a link for this site? I am always looking for new sources of fragrance oil.... :)

Gala
March 15th, 2004, 01:48 AM
Freyja I won't be going to my school where I can make the copies till Wed and even then if others are needing to use the machine. So I will take the book and just make copies when I can. When I get all done, you can pm me your address and I'll mail them to you. K?

terre
March 23rd, 2004, 05:56 PM
i keep seeing this Stick Blender on alot of recapies but the only ones iv found on live look like hand mixers i dont understand i thought you wearnt supose to use metal when making soap also i just finished making my first batch of soap but after mixing it for three hours i didnt get a thick trace but did get some trace will it be ok?

banondraig
March 23rd, 2004, 06:30 PM
stainless steel is ok as it won't react with lye. i would avoid any other metal. i used a stick blender on my last batch. it had some plastic at the end, which looked a bit melted when i finished, so proceed with caution.

terre
March 24th, 2004, 09:18 AM
hi love i was wondering what is a "stick blinder " and i made my first batch of soap yesterdat and stirred it for three hours but it never got to a thick trace point will it be ok?

Gala
March 24th, 2004, 01:12 PM
It is one of those that is a stick with a blade on the end, a motor at the other end. YOu can stick it in a glass and make a milk shake or use it in a pan to make creamed soups etc.

terre
March 24th, 2004, 01:59 PM
awww thats what i thought it was thank you soo muck :)

Gala
March 31st, 2004, 10:30 AM
Freyja.... I tried to PM you but your box is full...
I have those copies of the soap book....!!!!
send my your addy.

Ravensnest
April 2nd, 2004, 09:00 AM
hi love i was wondering what is a "stick blinder " and i made my first batch of soap yesterdat and stirred it for three hours but it never got to a thick trace point will it be ok?


If you stirred for three hours and never got a good trace chances are you didn't have the right amount of lye. Even all olive oil will trace before that. The stick blender will make it much easier and quicker though. But, even with a stick blender you have to watch for a false trace which can happen with certain recipes.

I'd run your recipe back through a lye detector to make sure the lye amount is right.

Flar's Freyja
April 2nd, 2004, 09:30 PM
This is so freaky - I had this little "portable mixer" that ran on batteries that came as a free gift with something for years and never used it. I coudn't remember if I still had it and when I looked it was gone, so I must have given it to Goodwill.

I was in a thrift shop the other day - not Goodwill, btw - and there was one, boxed, wrapped, never used, for $1.50! Needless to say, I snatched it up.

Now, I have another question - I am not sure what you are talking about when you say "lye calculator." Is this a formula or a machine? :bigredblu

Gala
April 2nd, 2004, 10:14 PM
This is so freaky - I had this little "portable mixer" that ran on batteries that came as a free gift with something for years and never used it. I coudn't remember if I still had it and when I looked it was gone, so I must have given it to Goodwill.

I was in a thrift shop the other day - not Goodwill, btw - and there was one, boxed, wrapped, never used, for $1.50! Needless to say, I snatched it up.

Now, I have another question - I am not sure what you are talking about when you say "lye calculator." Is this a formula or a machine? :bigredblu

Here is one MMS Lye Calc (http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php)
anotherCranberry Lane (http://www.cranberrylane.com/calculator.htm)
one more Ye Old Shoppe (http://www.soapmaking.com/lyecalc.mv)

Ravensnest
April 3rd, 2004, 04:43 PM
This is so freaky - I had this little "portable mixer" that ran on batteries that came as a free gift with something for years and never used it. I coudn't remember if I still had it and when I looked it was gone, so I must have given it to Goodwill.

I was in a thrift shop the other day - not Goodwill, btw - and there was one, boxed, wrapped, never used, for $1.50! Needless to say, I snatched it up.

Now, I have another question - I am not sure what you are talking about when you say "lye calculator." Is this a formula or a machine? :bigredblu


Great buy on the stick blender! Even at wal-mart the cheap one runs $10 or so.

http://thesage.com has a lye calculator that I use. There are several out there I just am used to theirs. You just put in your oil amounts and then it calculates the amount of lye you need along with the amount of water you need. I generally go with the lower amount of water because the soap will cure quicker if you're doing CP and will get hard faster if you're doing CPOP if you go with the least amount of water you can to still reach saponification.

Flar's Freyja
April 4th, 2004, 03:41 PM
Great buy on the stick blender! Even at wal-mart the cheap one runs $10 or so.

http://thesage.com has a lye calculator that I use. There are several out there I just am used to theirs. You just put in your oil amounts and then it calculates the amount of lye you need along with the amount of water you need. I generally go with the lower amount of water because the soap will cure quicker if you're doing CP and will get hard faster if you're doing CPOP if you go with the least amount of water you can to still reach saponification.

Yep, I know how much they are at Wal-Mart so I am soooo tickled!

Thanks so much for the info!